[Yamaha1300]

My wife’s 2023 Rtlpas fuel pump was replaced and it did not cure the stalling issues, it’s the replacement of the surge valve that cured it.

 

[haugustine]

My new fuel pump, seal kit & 2 fuel line connections have arrived. Yippee. Now I can start putting everything together. Slowly.

The thing that puzzled me was the comment about the sock on the fuel pump pickup. So, I disassembled the old fuel pump and discovered that what I had believed to be a screen, was in fact the fuel pump pre filter. It is a fine nylon/plastic mesh with some type of media inside. The media inside the old pre filter was black and there was particles attached to the mesh. The media hand NOT been sucked into the pump, but being black in color can not be good. I will NOT disassemble the new ($340.00) pump to see what color new is.

Tried installing the new pump and o-ring (lubed with some engine oil per service manual) and I guess I was not forceful enough. Gave up for the night and will try install again tomorrow.

As for the parts, Fox Powersports Can Am Parts Warehouse said there was a Canada/US border problem that held up the parts. I was given a free upgrade in shipping to UPS 2 Day Air. Very nice. All parts arrived well packaged and in good shape.

More info to come as I reinstall parts.

 

[PMK]

Haugustine. Interesting there was no sock. Oh well, it is BRP / Can Am, so no telling.

FPF Fuel Pump Strainer (QTY 3) For Can-Am 2014-2020 Spyder and RT , Replaces 709000370

Description FPF Fuel Pump Strainer (QTY 3) For Can-Am RT / RT LTD 2017-2020, Replaces 709000370 Fitment. 2014 SPYDER RT LIMITED SE6 - Fuel System2014 SPYDER RT SE6 - Fuel System2014 SPYDER RT SM6 - Fuel System2014 SPYDER RTS SE6 - Fuel System2014 SPYDER RTS SM6 - Fuel System2015 SPYDER RT...

www.fuelpumpfactory.com

 

[PMK]

Curious, does your new fuel pump look like it matches the fuel pump in the link?

Can-Am Roadster fuel pump

We offer low price and fast shipping on fuel pumps for Can-AM Spyder, F3, Ryker, and RT.

www.fuelpumpfactory.com

 

[PMK]

FPF Intank EFI Fuel Pump (1 Hose) for Can-Am Spyder F3 / GS / RS / RS / ST and RT , Replaces 709000370

Description Note- This fuel pump only have one outlet if you need the one with the small brass outlet please a click here. FPF replacement fuel pump are designed to meet or exceed OEM specifications. Our pump features upgraded bushing, turbine impeller and Japanese armature electric motor which...

www.fuelpumpfactory.com

 

[PMK]

Or is yours the two hose style?

Fuel Pump (2 Hose) for Can-Am F3 and Spyder , Replaces 709000498 and 709000779

Description Note- This fuel pump has two outlet one small brass outlet and the normal outlet. FPF replacement fuel pump are designed to meet or exceed OEM specifications. Our pump features upgraded bushing, turbine impeller and Japanese armature electric motor which will ensure max performance...

www.fuelpumpfactory.com

 

[haugustine]

Curious, does your new fuel pump look like it matches the fuel pump in the link?

Can-Am Roadster fuel pump

We offer low price and fast shipping on fuel pumps for Can-AM Spyder, F3, Ryker, and RT.

www.fuelpumpfactory.com

No actually, it does not look like that one at all. I will try to get a picture of it posted.

 

[haugustine]

Here is the pic of the old fuel pump and the fuel pump pre filter. Yes, it is the 2 hose style.

 

[haugustine]

Good news. The new oem fuel pump is in (with some struggle) and the Spyder runs well again. I did give it a try after I replaced the battery, but no luck. The new fuel pump was the answer. Now the fun of remembering how it all goes back together.

Thanks to all who commented and offered advice. I appreciate all the help.
Harold

 

[PMK]

Cool that it is resolved.
Based on your photos, it appears there is an oem sock.

 

[Six Shooter]

Great to hear that your Spyder is up & running again. Great work on the repair.

 

[haugustine]

Cool that it is resolved.
Based on your photos, it appears there is an oem sock.

I guess it is a sock/filter. I am not sure that I know how it could be pulled into the fuel pump intake tube and plug it, but anything is possible and far stranger things have happened. I am just glad that it runs well again. Looking forward to putting miles on the Spyder.

 

[09spyder]

I guess it is a sock/filter. I am not sure that I know how it could be pulled into the fuel pump intake tube and plug it, but anything is possible and far stranger things have happened. I am just glad that it runs well again. Looking forward to putting miles on the Spyder.

Hi haugustine. Thanks for posting, as I'm looking at the same or similar pump on my '09 SM5 (GS?) and was wondering how those cheap(er) pumps fit into the equation. I guess they are mounted below so, mystery solved.
Also, your original post mentioned the three things needed to run an engine, Please correct me as I'm no mechanic but, compression is needed also.

Thanks again

 

[haugustine]

09spyder you are correct about compression. No compression, no run. Sorry. I guess I was just assuming that compression was there, but we know about assuming something.

I purchased an oem fuel pump for my Spyder. I did not feel like disassembling the fuel pump to put the new parts into it. Just did not want to risk it no matter how much money would be saved. My fuel pump was mounted in tank and was a PITA to get out.

I am NOT a mechanic, just handy with tools and mechanical stuff. I would rather do what work I can do myself then pay a shop $145.00/hour. Yes, I may screw things up but I would still rather do most things myself.

 

[09spyder]

Same here. I'm doing my own work for the same reason. I'll be posting about my punch list soon. Frozen brakes and a fuel leak right now, (like, fuel coming from I don't know where at this time.)

 

[haugustine]

09spyder, when I changed my fuel filter I had to change all the rubber fuel lines due to deteriorating. They were not leaking at the time, but were very close. Cracks in all the hoses. Good luck.

 

[09spyder]

09spyder, when I changed my fuel filter I had to change all the rubber fuel lines due to deteriorating. They were not leaking at the time, but were very close. Cracks in all the hoses. Good luck.

From what I can see, all of my fuel lines are in decent shape. No cracking that I can see. I have some residue on the brake master cylinder. Nothing on the evap cannister or fuel filter, so, I'm at a bit of a loss. Nothing apparent from the fuel pump either. I'm going to add some gas and watch to look for it as it ALL leaks out and stunk up the garage just fine. Kitty litter on the floor from other's attempts to clean it up so, once fueled it should leak happily and I ought to be able to see it. I'll get a pan underneath it to catch it and I'll try to video the whole process.

 

[gpaedd]

2016 Can Am Spyder RT Limited with 34,500 miles. Had an issue where I had a lot of non-sense codes thrown including "Limp Home". This was all due to the battery having 1 bad cell. Had to have the bike put on a roll back and delivered to the house.

I decided to purchase the BUDS/BUDS2 program and hardware. Cleared the codes, installed a new YUHASA battery. Now the engine will run, but only for 30 seconds then dies. Installed a new fuel filter but no change to the engine run time. No codes are shown.

I know that there are only 3 basic things needed for an engine to run: fuel, air and spark. It seems like a fuel problem because it only runs for about 30 seconds then sputters to a stop.

2 questions. I cleared the codes before I replaced the battery, could this be a problem? Could the fuel pump be bad? I have replaced the air filter about 150 miles ago, also did an oil change with BRP kit. Any time I am not riding the bike it lives on a Battery Tender in my garage.

Any help or advice is greatly appreciated.
Harold
SW Missouri

PS: This is an SE6 1330 Rotax engine






sp

I had a similar issue recently, oxygen sensor replaced and no problems since.