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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
taking her in for the 1000k (600 mile) service this week, although will be about 2000k by then

am thinking about putting full synthetic in if the cost is reasonable.

any thoughts?
 

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Synthetic

My dealer has been putting synthetic in mine since the 3k (miles) oil change. I am planning a switch to the less expensive AMSOIL for the 12K (miles) oil change. So, ask your dealer if and when they would use synthetic, I don't think the price difference is all that great considering our Spyder spends a lot of time at transit speeds and in warm weather. Well, warm perhaps compared to BC.

Patrick
 

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Be careful with sludge.

A engine designed for synthetic oil tends to have less vents then a engine designed for reg. dino oil.

Honda years ago put a Acura engine designed for synthetic oil in a Civic and put reg oil in it, they had a major recall as all engines ended up with major sludge in 3 years time. their final story was, it did not have enough venting to let vapour out and caused sludge.
 

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Paladin, if they put in summer oil you'll get the BRP syn/dino blend which is 10-40, or if they use the full syn its a 5-40. I did my own "600" and used full syn Amsoil. The dealer may stock other brands of oil so that you can get a full syn 10-40 if you choose. Mobil1 makes a motorcycle 10-40 and so does Castrol and Valvoline. Down here in my neck of the woods, Advance Auto stocks all three. Either is likely to be much cheaper than the BRP. Might want to take your choice with you to the dealer. If you then choose not to use it, you can return it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
they told me not to use Sythentic till at least 10,000k as the oil they use has additives that are needed to breka the engine and tranny in properly
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
yup it is

main dealer here.. but I guess there are diff syntetics out there
 

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Is this a BRP Dealer?

They should know better.

BRP Rotax all engines are recommended to use Synthetic oil.

Any engine for a varying period of time requires a parasynthetic or normal hydrocarbon oil to break-in things and mostly seat the rings in the bores properly so it runs at full efficiancy. I see all you guys running out at the first oil change and switching to a full synthetic oil and I can't help but wonder how much of the power and efficiency you are missing during your engine and transmissions lifetimes.

Yes it may run cooler and get better gas mileage and you will think what a wonderfull thing I have done but you will be missing what it would have had if you waited till breaking-in was complete. If they say run the parasynthetic for 10,000 miles then run it and switch over to full synthetic after that. I have often seen things to prove this on the dyno in even full race engines which generally are made to looser tolerences and don't really need much break-in time at all. Generally just dyno time is enough and they are ready to go racing.

You will notice an increase in MPG and maybe even lower temperature in the engine (make allowances for the current heat wave we are having) and if you are really sharp the way the engine pulls on hills and under maybe acceleration load. That is the sign it might be getting ready for synthetics. Before that time it is a waste of money (the dang BuRP Parasynthetic costs enough) and may be a limiter to your general overall broke in and ready to go efficiency and power levels later in life of the engine.

I made my living as a lubrication specialist and field mechanic trouble shooter for 35 years for DuPont while racing for almost 30 years and maintaining my own equipment. I have learned to be both cheap and accurate on oils and maintnance. One thing about BuRP's maintanance schedule jumped right out at me first thing and that is 3,000 mile oil change intervals. That does not allow enough time with one charge of oil to facilitate a great amount of break-in time when one considers just the engine. However we are also using this oil in the transmission and that may be the major reason for the 3,000 mile interval. I know from Dupont's tests with oils that 4,000 miles with just hydrocarbon oils is a relatively safe interval so a parasynthetic should be safe even farther. Knowing this and recommending it are two different things but with now over 7,000 miles on the 2010 RT I now own, I am seeing things turn a bit faster and stronger and MPG is finally improving a bit too.

I am not a great believer in synthetic oils mainly because of the costs of them but when BuRP charges $9 or more a quart that synthetic looks much better to me. If you keep in mind the simple fact that synthetics work so good that they effectively eliminate wear and break-in seating maybe these facts will be easier to swallow. If you disagree that is you right but these facts have been learned by a now 67 year old man and all the hard way. Bill
 

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Im a new member and need a little info on 1300cc rotax engine dependability, getting older and need more stability, thinking about going to a can am spyder,just wondering if I'm making the right choice.
 

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I Shinnerman
The 1330 cc engine is a very reliable engine, less maintenance than the V2, hydraulic valves no adjustment like the V2, a lot of tork, with the 6 speed transmission the SE 6, very easy to operate.
FlyBoy2121
 

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Im a new member and need a little info on 1300cc rotax engine dependability, getting older and need more stability, thinking about going to a can am spyder,just wondering if I'm making the right choice.
Based on reports in forums like this, the engines and transmission in the newer models with the 1330 seem to be rock solid. Of course there always is an exception somewhere.

Some other things can be problematic, like switches and controls and "automatic" rear suspension but those things are generally just an inconvenience.

If you haven't already, browse through the other threads on here.

P.S. It probably would have been a little better for you to start your own thread........instead of tacking your message onto the end of another one that is TEN years old. ;)
 

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Based on reports in forums like this, the engines and transmission in the newer models with the 1330 seem to be rock solid. Of course there always is an exception somewhere.

Some other things can be problematic, like switches and controls and "automatic" rear suspension but those things are generally just an inconvenience.

If you haven't already, browse through the other threads on here.

P.S. It probably would have been a little better for you to start your own thread........instead of tacking your message onto the end of another one that is TEN years old. ;)
thanks easy rider for info ill try not to tack on to anyone else, God bless
 
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