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I just got my new spyder 08 silver with 1100 miles on it.. Every thing is cool........How-ever some times the spyder won,t start...I push the button on the dash and try to start the bike... No click no nothing...the dash panel resets i reset it a few more times Bike won't start.....after a wile the bike starts?????

Help Please... Thanks....
 

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It is nice to see someone else is having the same problem. The wife and I each have a Spyder and have encountered the problem on each machine. Does anyone have an idea on what the fix is? thanks-lw/
 

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Is it an SE 5 ?
If so step on the brake pedal before pushing the start button.
If not SE5.... in Neutral, clutch in? I'm thinking there is a clutch switch like in a car? if so, clutch switch or se5 brake switch adjustment may be out.
 

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typically the main relay #2 goes bad. this will not let the dash illuminate though. i have seen the ignition switch and antenna go bad aswell. that usually shows "bad key" on the gauge though. next time you have that issue swap the relay with another one in the fuse box and see if it goes away. i am a spyder tech and have seen a lot of different issues. if you have any questions, send me a message.
 

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I didn't see this thread until after posting another message under "New SE Spyder won't start.

I've been told that it's necessary to press down really hard on the brake while attempting to start, but on my machine that doesn't do much. If it doesn't want to start, pressing down on the brake doesn't cause it to start. And doing some self tests today after the initial service, it would start with the brake not applied, and start in either N or 1. (once it felt like starting)

The "not starting" issue seems to be related to the E model. I've tried swapping relays in the "fuse" box, but nothing changes. I have noticed that pressing the M switch doesn't always clear the "read the card" message, or if it clears the message the message comes back. And if the message is scrolling it won't start. Even if the message clears, it won't always start normally.

My technique is to hold the start switch (and press on the brake) and cycle the M switch. Somewhere around the 6th or 10th release of the M switch and it suddenly cranks.

If you have any suggestions for my dealer tech, I'd appreciate it. I can do without the Spyder for a couple of weeks, and it can stay at the dealer once I get it transported. (Next Tuesday, I hope)

pmdave
 

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My new spyder is also in the shop being worked on for not starting. My tech told me that the M button on the dash has a magnet behind it to make contact and it doesn't always work but the M button on the back of the handlebar is a direct wired button and the Spyder will always start by using that button. Hope this helps.
 

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Spyder won't start

I have been reading these threads about the spyder not starting and I have been having the same problem with my 2008. I bought it in March with 600 miles on it and started riding it in June - only have put about 100 miles on. It was starting just fine until a week ago. I would go through starting routine, push the mode button but nothing...I called 2 spyder mechanics and neither have ever heard of this. I have tried every combination of starting mentioned in these messages, but it only starts intemittently - no pattern. I have switched between the keys, thinking it might be the chip, but that makes no difference. Then varying the starting procedure - no pattern. The last attempt was to push the mode button on the dash several times quickly - and guess what...so far it starts each time. I don't expect this to last - obviously there is a problem...but at least it clues me in that it has to do with the mode button or the computer itself ( the mode button on the handle bar doesn't work either) as mentioned in one of these threads. I don't believe it is the chip in the key, the battery ( I haven't had any battery problem), starting procedure (like needing to press the brake or have it in neutral) - it is definatley something in the dash. If anyone else can add to this mystery - I'd appreciate it. I am bringing it in for service next week - but to a mechanic who has never dealt with the problem.
Kathy
 

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Got my Spyder Back from the dealership the other day. Because of all the rain here in NY, I had to trailer the bike home. When I went to get it off the trailer, it would not start. Took 10 min. When I got home from work, it tried to start it, again it would not start. Yesterday I finally could start the Spyder but it took three tries. While sitting on it, I called the dealership to walk me through the steps. I was told that the M button is a safety feature. The bike will not start until you push the M button and make the scrolling message stop. If the scrolling message doesn't stop, push the M button until it does and do not press the start button until it does stop scrolling. Because I was talking to the dealership for step by step instruction, the time between each step was longer than what I usually wait between step. The Spyder started on the first try while talking to the tech. guy. While the Spyder was getting serviced, the computer showed that there was nothing wrong with it. They did replace the magnet behind the M button on the dash. I was told that there is no way to bypass the M button because it is a safety feature and the only way to start it is to wait for the scrolling message to stop. I've tried it several times today and it started each time. Sometimes the message stopped after pushing the M button once sometimes it took 3 tries to stop the message but it did start.
 

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I got my Spyder back from the dealer - they kept it for 24 hours and it started every time! When I picked it up I pushed the mode button on the dash - and nothing. Tried the button on the handle bar and same thing. However, if I push the mode button on the dash several times it starts up each time. I'm guessing that's what the techs did. So, for now that's how I'll start it. I don't get why it's different from the first 3 months but ... whatever works.
Still interested in hearing others experience.
 

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I hauled my Spyder to the dealer and left it for a couple of weeks. The tech checked everything, and couldn't replicate the "won't start" problem. Just the same, he checked battery voltage, charging system, both Mode switches, and replaced all the relays in the front fuse box. At the advice of BRP, he also added a ground wire to the coil bracket, oil tank, etc.

He also replaced the failed battery under warrantee, and I have the Odyssey battery as a spare.

Observation 1: the mode button is only to be pressed once, and very quickly. Holding the M button too long (waiting for the message to go away) causes a recycle loop. So, wait for the complete self-test display to complete, let the message scroll for a couple of seconds, then press the M button once, very quickly.

Observation 2: The system checks for transmission in neutral as part of the starting. If the transmission is in gear, as soon as the engine starts it shifts the trans to neutral. I'm now taking care to shift to N before shutting down. Theoretically, if the trans is in gear, holding the brake on allows the start sequence.

Observation 3: The dash-mounted M switch is apparently less reliable than the handlebar-mounted M switch. So, I now use the M switch (on the front of the left handlebar pod) to cancel the scrolling display. It seems to work for me every time now.

Observation 4: Relays are known to fail as a result of low voltage (as when a battery is failing) These are common automotive relays, and I think I'll start carrying a new spare. If the starting anomoly occurs, I'll try swapping the main relay.

Observation 5: Battery connections are critical. It's essential to have clean and tight connections to both positive and negative terminals. A connection that isn't snug will allow voltage and instrument functions, but won't provide the necessary current to power the starter solenoid. I am suspicious that the connections to the Odyssey battery might not have been sufficiently tight. I checked the connections to the currently installed Yuasa, and they are snug (and now greased)

The bottom line is that a good battery combined with proper driver technique is yielding reliable starts now.

I should add that BRP has been very helpful, and the dealer service manager has been extremely cooperative.

pmdave
 

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Starting problems with the Can Am

I just got my new spyder 08 silver with 1100 miles on it.. Every thing is cool........How-ever some times the spyder won,t start...I push the button on the dash and try to start the bike... No click no nothing...the dash panel resets i reset it a few more times Bike won't start.....after a wile the bike starts?????

Help Please... Thanks....
Very disappointed to fine this issues has not been resolved!!! My Can Am is 2013, it's been in and out of the shop for the starting problem without success. I contact the manufacture in Canada to find they have not heard of this problem. I was encouraged to take the Can Am to a dealer have them contact Canada requesting a "Case" on this issue. Hopefully we will have a solution to our starting problem. There is no reason we shoud be having this problem with a product such as the Can Am Spyder.....
 

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I have been watching this thread for time and like to add what I have found.

On a recent trip with my wife, we were riding Her 2008 GS se5 and my 2013 ST. Her bike has always started until this recent trip. After one leg of the trip (about 575 miles) and running for hours in the rain her bike would not strt the next morning.

The bike was dead! After checking the normal suspects I found the problem. On the right side of the bike frame is the second ground connector( first being the battery) The stude for the second connection was just loose enough so that the connector could be moved slightly, ust enough to make contact and the bike started.

The stud can not be tighted as the nut is located under the frame member. When you are on the road you never have the right tool with you. The fix lasted for 150 miles then dead again.

The next repair amounted to wrapping the ground connector and the stud with a pieace of copper wire. The wire was pulled tight and twisted together to get the best connection possible, added a piece of Gorrilla Duct tape to ensure the connection would remain as weather tight as possible.

Now that we are home the connector can be tighten correctly and sealed with silicone grease.
I have added another ground cable from the battery to a frame in an area that can be checked and sealed. The positive attachment was checked and sealed at the same time.

Just passing on my experience with a no start condition.

Good Luck
 

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hi ,,, my 08 Can Am Spyder wont even start at the gauges no light whats so ever... where can I buy the relays, just let me add that I bought this bike in Florida but I send it to The US Virgin Islands and we have no dealers on the island
 

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my 08 can am spyder don't show any lights at the gauges and I try changing the relays but with no luck the worst part is that I live in the US VIRGIN ISLANDS and the nearest dealer is in Puerto Rico so if anyone have or seen this kind of problem could you please help me out... thanks
 

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no start

I just got my new spyder 08 silver with 1100 miles on it.. Every thing is cool........How-ever some times the spyder won,t start...I push the button on the dash and try to start the bike... No click no nothing...the dash panel resets i reset it a few more times Bike won't start.....after a wile the bike starts?????

Help Please... Thanks....
after stomping on the rear brake and holding down hard seemed to clear it so looking harder at the switch like this https://www.ebay.ca/itm/13-14-15-CA...0b93993c:g:eAcAAOSwnh5b~aZL:rk:1:pf:0&vxp=mtr
iva 2103 st special edition se5
 
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