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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Just to keep other riders informed here's a post I put on the other Spyder forum. To bring you up to date the bike is still at the dealer they have tried everything from shock adjustments front end alignment with no success. I think short of replacing the DPS system their wasting their time. I'm reading some pretty scarey stuff on the internet regarding this nighmare of steering problems that dates all the way back to the first Spyder they released. MY other Spyder that is almost 2 years old still has steering problems but nothing like this RTS.

________________

Ok I’m pretty upset with BRP tonight – here’s the story . . .
I’ve been a Spyder owner since they came out – as a matter of fact, I got one of the bikes slated for the dealer and was driving one of the first “yellow Spyder’s in Virginia. Anyhow – I’ve been watching the RTS for some time now and decided to sell my trusty Goldwing CSC trike and add the Spyder RTS to my fleet for some serious cruising. I ordered the bike last week and this morning I went to pick her up and bring her home.
Everything was hunky dory (how ever you spell it) until I took my first ride. In just seconds, I could feel a serious problem with the steering to the point it actually felt the bike was almost out of control. After analyzing the problem it was quickly determined that the power steering module for the RTS had some serious problems. While most power steering modules reduce steering ability the faster you go to reduce over-steer, the re-designed module on the RTS model continues to be over sensitive regardless of speed. Any slight movement of the handlebars, dip in the road, gust of wind, or any movement of the rider or passenger causes the bike to swerve to either the right or left.

After a few trips back to the dealer trying different air pressures and increasing the shock settings, it was perfectly clear that Spyder RTS is not road worthy, and in fact unsafe. On one of my many test rides, Rt 460 where the speed limit is 65, it was almost impossible to hold the bike in a lane without constant corrections. On one occasion, as a semi passed me, I locked my arms to prevent the bars from moving and the turbulence caused the bike to almost uncontrollably swerve back and forth and at times right in the other lane.

As another test, I drove a new standard RT model, and it handled just as good as my old Spyder. Anyhow, after reading post all over the Internet, it’s clear I’m not the only one with this problem . My quick research shows that the standard RT model uses the old type steering module while the RTS with it’s new front end and uses a new steering module hence the problem.

The long and short of it - BRP should be ashamed of themselves for releasing the bike in this condition. You can’t tell me that no one knew of this problem because a company with so much technology has to know what there is a problem. While I’m concerned with my bike getting fixed, I’m more concerned with someone getting injured or worse killed as a result of this problem. As of now, my new bike sits at the dealer and no one really knows anything, not even the factory on how to fix the damn thing.

My old Goldwing starting to look real good to me again . . .
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
From what I understand the RT and RTS models have a whole new front end, wider track, and softer suspension and DPS system.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
That's exactly what I'm talking about - they come up with a touring bike (Hello for traveling) and you can't use it to pass a truck - is there anybody at the factory that even drives these damn things???

And here I was thinking that it was going to be just too easy... :D I've got the A&C model and to my untrained arms it seems too track okay; but it's just a little sensitive to buffeting and overtaking trucks...:eek:
 

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If you were new to these critters, I'd probably be suggesting that it might be a case of getting used to something that's just a bit different... that's not the case here though! I know that with mine I've just got to be aware of what traffic is doing so that any buffeting doesn't come as a complete surpriese. I wouldn't characterize it as unsafe though... Push your dealer to make some calls directly to BRP to see if they've got anything to say about what you're feeling. Good luck with it and please let us know what you find.



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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I can't be sure but yours sounds like it ain't right - my standard Spyder is totally un-affected by trucks, crosswinds, etc. It's just like riding any bike!

If you were new to these critters, I'd probably be suggesting that it might be a case of getting used to something that's just a bit different... that's not the case here though! I know that with mine I've just got to be aware of what traffic is doing so that any buffeting doesn't come as a complete surpriese. I wouldn't characterize it as unsafe though... Push your dealer to make some calls directly to BRP to see if they've got anything to say about what you're feeling. Good luck with it and please let us know what you find.
 

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fast lane

u guys are scaring me i have 08 spyder 2600 miles on it i raise the bars 4 inches a 2 bros muffler which is too loud sounds good tho the steering was hard to get used to i stiffend the shocks all the way sway bar is next use 17 pounds air it has to be stiff to handle good.i rode the big touring model iot scare the hell outof me too much learn in turns and on the straight it darted side to side too soft back to beeing scared i read all the problems u are having my 08 seems to have none yet!!! think it wont corner my sport bike friends sure wake up when i pass them coming out to the turns on the out side do u want to cruise or ride ??? ps i am 78 years old and too old to hold my 750 honda up at stops. can am seems to have a lot of problems better choose a good dealer or be lucky like me. go ahead and buy the thing and have fun be fore its too late.
 

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Gee... that made a HUGE difference!:D I went up one notch on the preload (Get the bike in the air to do this!! It's much easier if the weight is off of the wheels!) I then took it for one of my normal routes that includes some 55mph roads, serious crosswinds across a reservoir, and some Town pothole dodging... The ride wasn't hurt at all, and about 95% of the twitchiness was gone! So get out the spanners and start twisting! :D



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Shock Settomgs

Hello all,

New owner here that is wondering about settings on my sport model spyder. I weigh 115 lbs and my wife weighs about 125-130. My spyder came with the front shocks set at #3 from the softest setting and the softest setting on the rear. I dropped the fronts to the softest setting and with just me on it does not seem bad but as soon as the wife gets on it's awful. I guess I will try the next up setting on the fronts but was wondering how or if I should bump up the back as well.

Someone also mentioned raising the front tire pressure to 17 and was wondering what others may have discovered by playing around with tire pressure. I know it makes a huge difference on my mr2 spyder.

Thanks

Mike
 

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Thank you

Thanks to Bob and Idle-Up I know I am on the right track with my spyder. Increased the front tire pressure to 25lbs and the front pre load to the 4th setting and man what a difference that made. Much more stable over all and the cornering is far and away better. I was very plesently supprised that the ride quality was just as good as on the softer side. Rode for about 50 miles last night after making the changes and was able to hit the corners much better. Next I am going to try moving the shocks to the 5 position and put 30 lbs in the front tires.

My spyder came with the rear shock set at the softest setting so was wondering if anyone has expermented with changing that.

Our spyder is a 2010 Blue RS with the electronic 5 speed.

Thanks again for the help I really appreciate it.

Mike
 

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RTS Stering issues

Hi, It sounds like the same issue I'm finding with my new 2011 RTS. At first I thought it was me getting to learn the bike. I find when I reach 60 MPH the bike tends to dart very easy with any wind change or bump. Any suggestions..

Just to keep other riders informed here's a post I put on the other Spyder forum. To bring you up to date the bike is still at the dealer they have tried everything from shock adjustments front end alignment with no success. I think short of replacing the DPS system their wasting their time. I'm reading some pretty scarey stuff on the internet regarding this nighmare of steering problems that dates all the way back to the first Spyder they released. MY other Spyder that is almost 2 years old still has steering problems but nothing like this RTS.

________________

Ok I’m pretty upset with BRP tonight – here’s the story . . .
I’ve been a Spyder owner since they came out – as a matter of fact, I got one of the bikes slated for the dealer and was driving one of the first “yellow Spyder’s in Virginia. Anyhow – I’ve been watching the RTS for some time now and decided to sell my trusty Goldwing CSC trike and add the Spyder RTS to my fleet for some serious cruising. I ordered the bike last week and this morning I went to pick her up and bring her home.
Everything was hunky dory (how ever you spell it) until I took my first ride. In just seconds, I could feel a serious problem with the steering to the point it actually felt the bike was almost out of control. After analyzing the problem it was quickly determined that the power steering module for the RTS had some serious problems. While most power steering modules reduce steering ability the faster you go to reduce over-steer, the re-designed module on the RTS model continues to be over sensitive regardless of speed. Any slight movement of the handlebars, dip in the road, gust of wind, or any movement of the rider or passenger causes the bike to swerve to either the right or left.

After a few trips back to the dealer trying different air pressures and increasing the shock settings, it was perfectly clear that Spyder RTS is not road worthy, and in fact unsafe. On one of my many test rides, Rt 460 where the speed limit is 65, it was almost impossible to hold the bike in a lane without constant corrections. On one occasion, as a semi passed me, I locked my arms to prevent the bars from moving and the turbulence caused the bike to almost uncontrollably swerve back and forth and at times right in the other lane.

As another test, I drove a new standard RT model, and it handled just as good as my old Spyder. Anyhow, after reading post all over the Internet, it’s clear I’m not the only one with this problem . My quick research shows that the standard RT model uses the old type steering module while the RTS with it’s new front end and uses a new steering module hence the problem.

The long and short of it - BRP should be ashamed of themselves for releasing the bike in this condition. You can’t tell me that no one knew of this problem because a company with so much technology has to know what there is a problem. While I’m concerned with my bike getting fixed, I’m more concerned with someone getting injured or worse killed as a result of this problem. As of now, my new bike sits at the dealer and no one really knows anything, not even the factory on how to fix the damn thing.

My old Goldwing starting to look real good to me again . . .
 

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@Norman.

I am a big guy at 270#. I put the front shocks to the hardest setting and 20PSI in the tires on my RT Ltd. Made a huge difference.

As to passing trucks, I put on the smaller touring windshield. It is about 3 inches shorter and 3 inches narrower. Made a huge difference and still offers nearly the same amount of wind protection. Some just cut down their factory windshields to about the same size and have had good luck.
 

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30lb on front? wow !!!

I was told by the techs at my place not to go much higher for tire pressures than what's on the plate on the side of the bike..

the more you put in the worse the tire wear is and greater the chance of something really going wrong

i got my front to 16.5 moved the adjustement to the second hardest notch and went for 200m ride on Friday and was easy as pie . i have the air ride rear so more less adjust for the wife when she is on the back but middle setting worked just fine
 

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Sensitive Steering on mine also

I agree with you guys that the RT steering is too sensitive. A fraction of correction in a curve causes too much wobble and is downright scary in tight mountian curves. At first I assumed it was just me, needing to get to learn how to handle it, and also because not many others seem bothered by it, or have not reported it. At 1900 miles on it now, it is feeling better, but still way too sensitive, even on interstate highways. Its taking far too much attention to suit me. Thats the only downside I can see to this otherwise fine machine.

I've tried various tire pressures and shock adj and haven't seen this to make any significant difference. Presently I'm running 17 front/27 rear, shocks next to highest setting. I've played with the air shock on the rear but it doesn't seem to affect handling.

FWIW, I'm 77 and not one to sling around curves or get too frisky, and I've been riding for about 60 years on 2 wheelers. I prefer open road riding.
 

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My personal opinion (that's right, I don't have absolute knowledge but based on how the cornering changed i formed this opinion) is that when the front tires are too soft they tend to roll to the side in corners. Any minor steering input or change in road surface or bumps in the corners will cause the front tires to roll back and forth which ends up causing the rider to "chase" the wobble trying to maintain a smooth turn.

On a ride with a friend he commented on how far the front tires rolled over in the turns when I was having problems cornering. After reading on this forum, I started upping the pressure in the front tires until I tried 20PSI and my RT Ltd started cornering like it was on rails.

Also, make sure that the front tires have the exact same pressure (within 1/2 PSI) or it may cause DPS codes.

In short, it only takes a few minutes to add a couple of PSI to the front tires and take a short ride. You will be surprised at the difference.
 

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Dave, I tried 20 once and rode 12 mi on interstate; seemed like I was all over the place. Got to town, let it down to 17 and rode exact same route back home. Seemed better. However, there might be some variables like wind, more trucks one way, etc. If it works for you, I'm gonna give it another try and leave it that way for longer. Certainly easy enuf to do.

I wish more folks would input to this forum. I'm surprised how few there are.
 
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