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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I will eventually be buying a Spyder. I'm not sure yet what model I will be going with though? I am curious, on the Spyder RS or RT, what kind of mileage is usually the average for both models on highway and around town? Also, what are the top speeds on both models?

I will pretty much be using the Spyder for out in the country rides and will also be taking my wife with me on some of them too since we live out in the country. There may be some rides where I go on longer rides like with groups and stuff but will need to join those groups still.

With the more experienced folks on here, what are some known problems to look for and what is the maintenance stuff like? Are these things chain driven or shaft?

My last question for now is on pricing. I'm actually kind of shocked at how much these are going for new. Seems kind of high to me. What are most people paying out the door on all models? And does Can Am give any rebates?

Thanks everyone.
Jay
 

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Average mileage on my RT is 29mpg. and about 34 highway. Can drop down to about 24 with a bad headwind. I believe the RSes will get slightly better gas mileage due to weighing less.
Speed is governed around 128 I believe. I've had it up to 100 myself just to say I've done it.
Both models are belt driven.
I paid about 24500 for my 2011 RT-AC back in October.

stuff to know:
clicking from the front wheels when braking is normal.
don't ride the brake while riding, it will cause errors to pop up on the display
They like to rev high. Spyders are happiest at 5-6k RPM. you want to shift around 4.5k
The alternator is weak and doesnt begin charging till around 4k rpm. Keep this in mind if you add a lot of electronics like lights and such.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Cool, thank you for your help! I like the new RS-S model but I'm not sure how comfortable it would be if the wife wants to go for a ride.
 

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Welcome J-Dog...

I looked at the RS initially, because the RT line is more expensive. Sitting on the RS in the show room was uncomfortable, due to my height. I felt too angled and bent up.

I went with an RTS SE and aside from the cost, I could not be happier. My wife LOVES it and is slowly working her way towards a motorcycle license herself. I've had her on some desolate desert roads around Vegas practicing and she's all slanted eyes and teeth from all the smiling.

We love the RT, but we're old farts. RS or RT, I don't think you can go wrong.
 

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Jay, I've got an '08 RS SM5 and get 30 mpg... unless I get my wrist into it too much, then its around 28.

The stock seat isn't as comfy as the RT, and they aren't interchangeable or plenty of us would have done that by now. I only ride 1 up, my husband rides his own bike, so can't say for sure how comfy it is for a passenger.

If you look for a used model, make sure any recalls have been done. The wait list to have these things done is long but distinguished.

Maintenance, if you can do your own, is worth the savings. For most things anyway. Farkles can be a pain to install, i.e. handlebar risers, though looking into doing it yourself isn't a bad idea.

All said, for the price, I still prefer the RS myself. At this point. Of course, that's subject to change without notice!!!
 

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Take the RT

you get the best of both worlds I think

comfort for you and your passenger, plus lots of extra goodies

mileage seems to be about the same for both
 

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If riding 2 up will be a consideration, then the RTS is the one for you. An RSS will be a blast, but making one passenger friendly can be costly, either through BRP options or aftermarket. You can be getting into RT territory cost wise real quick. We have put > 18.5 K miles on our RTS in our first year of ownership. I do all maintenance that does not require BRP interface with the onboard systems.Lemme put it this way in closing, we gave up GoldWings for one of these. Nuff said.
Patrick
 

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I have a 09 SE5 Sport Model and I love it. The seat cuts the circulation off on each side of the inside of my upper legs on long rides (4 hrs and up) so I put on Highway pegs which alleviated the pressure points. I put on 4.5 inch risers which I love. I now have to have a custom windshield made, I am thinking, to come up just a bit higher because of wind pushing on my shoulders because I love speed. I get on average any where from 30-38 mpg depending on wind and road conditions. My speed has been up to 106mph (175 kms) and still lots of room left. I normally ride around 75-87 mph(120-140 kms) and I have put on 15,500 miles in the past 2 seasons. Brakes are still good. I wore out a back tire due to improper pressure (all a part of learning for me) and I now have a car tire on it. Absolutely, no problems with the tire. I found it cheaper and I will get much longer wear out of it. I will put same type of tires on the front when they are ready. My girl gets hot when just riding around the city on the very warm days and the heat from the right side where the fan is gets pretty hot. I am told I can fix this but haven't gotten around to checking into it yet. I was pretty new to riding when I decided on a Spyder. This year, I have purchased a little tent trailer which I will try pulling behind my girl.
If you can work on your own bike, then do so as it is cheaper and then you know your bike better. All around, these are good machines and you really can't beat the Rotax Engine. My friends on Harleys, Victory's and Choppers are pretty amazed at how I can keep up or speed by them. As with anything though, there are always good points and bad points. My advise to you is exactly what you are doing, ask questions. Go to the dealerships and see if you can do test rides. Find what you like. I bought used with only 559 miles and paid 18,500. I am in Alberta, Canada so the pricing is probably high. (kms = Kilometers)
I ride in all kinds of weather conditions and have had the VSS kick in when Hydroplaning. It works great. Really, it's a sound machine. If I could change anything, it would be the seat to a softer more comformed seat and the big ass stock muffler to a smaller one with alittle more sound to it. People can see me no problem but they can't hear me. I have the Yellow and Black Model and it is very visible on the highway. The Red, Blue and the Orange model stand out too, but I found that the Black or the Grey models are not as visible when with a group of bikes.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Thank you all for your replies! After thinking about it, I'm thinking the RT-S will be my best option due to me needing a comfortable seat for my wife. We're in our late 30's so comfort is starting to become a big thing for us now.
 

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late 30's?

you just youngsters

hehe

have fun
 

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we are both 50+ but riding with a spyder makes you younger year by year ..:)
both modells are best for touring .. but the RT which we use now after 2 years with an GS/RS is the highest comfort for 2up and a 1000mls weekend
you find a lot of video-clips in youtube which maybe helps you in your decision ..
[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=W7TGDy6jLY0]Can-Am Spyder - 2011 Italian event - YouTube[/ame]
 

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My wife and I are in our late 50s and ride a 2010 RS and love it. The wife is very comfy and all I did for her is put the BRP back rest on. I ahve done quite a bit for me as far as after market and I agree that the stock seat on the RS is not that comfortable so I put on a BRP comfort seat. Again more for me than my wife.

Overall I would not trade my RS but the RT is very nice as well. I think it comes down to personal choice. I tend to be a little more into the sporty mode than touring.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
For me personally, I actually prefer the sportier models but I know the wife will be more interested in a comfortable ride. Especially if we go on any that are more than 2 hours long. We have friends with bikes and they all go on rides several hours long. I'm hoping to join up with fellow Spyder folks but I will also be going on rides with them.
 

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I've got socks older than that.. :eek: :D

There's no doubt that the RT models are built more for comfort and distance riding than the RS/GS models. Conversely; the RS/GS models are a whole lot sportier for spirited riding.
The RTs are tuned for peak power about 750 to 1000 rpm lower in the rev range, so they'll feel torquier and you'd be able to pull a gear higher in a lot of conditions.
The most important part of the purchase to find a dealer whose got a service manager who knows his or her... STUFF! These are pretty intricate machines and if you need answers, you don't want to waste time with guessing...
Good Luck, and please let us know how the shopping goes! :cool:



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We go on some pretty long rides and the only thing my wife ever complained about the RS besides sometimes driving a bit fast is if I don't put the back rest on.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Okay, so a few more questions. On the sport models, I see they have an area for fog lights on some of the models or you can buy aftermarket. Are they able to be run with the high beams on or just the low beams?

Same with the RT models. The hood on them looks different though. Are the top ones the headlights or are all 4 lights considered headlights? When the high beams are on, are they all on or what is the set up on them?

With my truck, it came from the factory with fog lights on it but I had to mod them to make it to where the fog lights work independent of the headlights. Now I can turn the fog lights on by themselves, with the low beams or high beams. I also like the extra lighting when it is like that and would like to be able to have the same kind of set up on the Spyder.

Another question I have is on fuel. What kind of fuel is recommended for these things? On my YFZ 450's, I have to put at least 91 octane in them. Are these things the same?

Also, how hard is it to do an oil change on a Spyder? On my ATV's, it is very easy but I know on certain things it can be a pain in the butt.

And my last question, what are some common problems that Spyders are known to have?

Thanks again everyone. I really do appreciate all of your help!
Jay
 

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I can't address the lighting as that is the one area I have not done anything. As for fuel my guess is that you will get as many opinions as there are people. I try and use non ethenol premium when I can get it or if not I use cheveron premium. I think you can get away with mid grade and even some regular if the octaine rating is high enough. I do not do my own oil changes because I happen to have a great dealer and I like to get it looked over while in for new oil. The spyder is a dry sump engine with an oil resivoir so if you are familiar with that type of engine you should have no problems if that is your thing.

I don't want to tread on anyones toes but it does seem that the RT's of late have had somewhat more problems than the RS so maybe the RT owners can weigh in better than I can. I do know that the friend I ride with has had no issues with his RT. My 2010 RS was recalled because of the DPS (Dynamic Power Steering) issue that affected all Spyders but that should be a thing of the past now. Other than that I have had no issues other than what I have caused. I have tried a number of handle bar risers and in the end settled on the Kewl metel 7" bars that I liked but this winter decided to try the 9" that require new longer throttle cables. The cables they sent were the wrong length and the pull cable to replace the wrong one sent was also wrong so I am still dealing with that issue.

I put elka shocks and a heavy duty sway bar on my RS that has help the handling a lot. The new RSS I believe comes with front fox shocks with remote resivoirs as stock but I don't believe the RT does.

The thing I find with the forums which I think are great is that you hear about the best and worst of everything. On the MR2 spyder forum they talk about all kinds of problems that I have never encountered on mine. On the good side though I avoided a major engine problem related to the pre-cat through the forum.
 

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you need to buy the BRP foglights for the RS I think as no one makes the housing yet as far as I know ( they are on sale right now )

The lights for an RT are the top ones are the normal headlights/high beams and the lower set (if you have them ) are the foglights

you can run the fogs at the same time as the headlights if you want, but they are really useless, I finally found yellow HID lights to put in there

they recommend 91 Octane for them, but if you do lots of highway then regular will work fine, but you need the higher octane in the city for starting/stopping

as for oil changes you "should" let the dealer do them for the first 2-3 changes as they replace a bunch of stuff along with the oil and make sure everything is doing what it's supposed to be, but after that they are suppoed to be not too bad

the worst part about doing any kind of work is the jig saw puzzle that the body work entails, you need take parts off in a certain order then put them back on in the same order, not super hard but frustrating the first few times you do it
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
you need to buy the BRP foglights for the RS I think as no one makes the housing yet as far as I know ( they are on sale right now )

The lights for an RT are the top ones are the normal headlights/high beams and the lower set (if you have them ) are the foglights

you can run the fogs at the same time as the headlights if you want, but they are really useless, I finally found yellow HID lights to put in there

they recommend 91 Octane for them, but if you do lots of highway then regular will work fine, but you need the higher octane in the city for starting/stopping

as for oil changes you "should" let the dealer do them for the first 2-3 changes as they replace a bunch of stuff along with the oil and make sure everything is doing what it's supposed to be, but after that they are suppoed to be not too bad

the worst part about doing any kind of work is the jig saw puzzle that the body work entails, you need take parts off in a certain order then put them back on in the same order, not super hard but frustrating the first few times you do it

Thanks for the heads up on all the question and the oil changes. On my YFZ's, to replace the spark plugs, you have to do the same thing in taking off a lot of body parts in a certain order. I also did find a video on youtube on how to do it. Doesn't seem to hard. The oil filter looks to be the hardest thing to do but shouldn't be to bad.
 
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