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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have a 2018 RTL with SE6. Lately I'm having trouble with it shifting in 1st or 2nd. I bought the bike in November of 2020, and it had a low milage of 5,813, and the correct oil level. There is a Warrant Bulletin 2018-5, Subject, Left Hand Multifunction Switch Malfunction. The total replacement cost would be almost a $1000. The dealer says they cannot get the replacement part until some time in March 2022. Has anybody had luck in getting this warranty. It says Expiration date was July 31, 2020. It expired less than 4 months from the time I bought it.
I have no ride till then. Does anybody have any suggestion on what I can do? I don't trust this bike with its shifting/not shifting.
ron
 

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Sorry to hear about your issue very frustrating. Unfortunately if it is this part and provided what the dealer told you on availability status is true your kind of stuck. That said I have a hard time believing this part is not immediately available for a 2018 unless it’s being redeveloped to address the problem. If that’s the case I would push to have the older version part installed under warranty to get you back on the road until the updated version is released. Have you tried contacting another dealer? Not saying your dealer isn’t any good but they are not all the same. I learned that from experience. You could also maybe trying sourcing a used part off a wreck but of course warranty would not cover that and you may still be left in the same situation.
 

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I have a 2018 RTL with SE6. Lately I'm having trouble with it shifting in 1st or 2nd.
What exactly does it do, or not do, that it is supposed to ?
From N to 1.....from R to 1......from 1 to 2......or 2 to 3 ?
The same contact is used for ALL shifts.

If it shifts down automatically by itself OK, then the transmission itself is probably OK and the paddle control is likely the problem.

Seems like I've heard a couple of owners who loosened the mount a bit and flushed the switch contacts out with alcohol or contact cleaner and fixed the problem.

Also it might now be necessary to use a firm push on the paddle instead of just a quick "flick".

While the 1330 is not known for "using" oil, have you checked the oil level lately ?
It IS known that low oil can cause shifting problems.
 

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Continuing ER's questions: is the trouble commanding the shift or execution of the shift?

If the paddle shift switch is faulty then it should affect all gear commands independent of a specific gear.

If the transmission is faulty then specific gears could be affected.

You have a four-year old Spyder. I presume you had a full service, including HCM filter, since purchasing it. If not, why not?
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Continuing ER's questions: is the trouble commanding the shift or execution of the shift?

If the paddle shift switch is faulty then it should affect all gear commands independent of a specific gear.

If the transmission is faulty then specific gears could be affected.

You have a four-year old Spyder. I presume you had a full service, including HCM filter, since purchasing it. If not, why not?
Thank You three for getting back to me so quickly.

To answer Klbrnr: 1st I will see if I can get an older version, and yes, I have either been to or called other dealers. They all say the same thing.

To answer EasyRider: At first it would not shift out of second, then it was OK. The last time it hung up in 1st. I shut the engine off, restarted, it went to neutral like it should, but then would not shift at all except reverse. I will try to flush/out. The first thing I read from the other forum was to check the oil.

To answer BERT: It might be the transmission. Yes, the dealer I bought the bike from signed that they did the 3K in 10-14-19 and the 1K, at 5,813 miles. I will check with the dealer to find out exactly what they did. I haven't even put on a thousand miles.

Thanks again KLbrnr, EasyRider, and BERT Remington for all of your input. Have a Merry Christmas and a keep on riding New Year.

Ron
 

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Ron -- the Spyder SE6 transmission is mostly the SM6 manual transmission with a solenoid performing the shift lever function and hydraulic pressure (vice the SM6 spring pressure) performing the clutch engagement function. A double rotor pump increases engine oil pressure to the levels required to operate the gearbox components.

Recommendation:

1. Look behind the left footrest area to see if the solenoid shifter area is clean and corrosion free.
2. Perform an oil and filter (engine and HCM) change using BRP's 5W40. Then have your dealer perfom both the Inspection and the Troubleshooting procedures described in the Electronic Shift System (SE6) subsection of the Service Manual. Yes you will spend a few $100s but I believe the investment is appropriate at four years with the problems you are having. You won't have to wait until March and you will know better the cause of the problems.
 

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Ron -- After starting my 80K engine the first shift out of Neutral generates a clunk just like all constant-mesh motorcycle transmissions. Then until the temperature reaches 1 or 2 bars the upshifts are butter-smooth. At 3-4 bars the shifts are more noticeable especially downshifts.

If from the first time you rode your Spyder if it did not shift like that I believe that strongly points to the transmission not the paddle switch. And I'm thinking old oil with sticky clutch plates, just like a motorcycle clutch causing problems with shifting.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Ron -- After starting my 80K engine the first shift out of Neutral generates a clunk just like all constant-mesh motorcycle transmissions. Then until the temperature reaches 1 or 2 bars the upshifts are butter-smooth. At 3-4 bars the shifts are more noticeable especially downshifts.

If from the first time you rode your Spyder if it did not shift like that I believe that strongly points to the transmission not the paddle switch. And I'm thinking old oil with sticky clutch plates, just like a motorcycle clutch causing problems with shifting.
Wow, Bert you went way over my head on that first part. I did check the solenoid and it was clean. I will have the dealership do the oil change and the ESsystem. The dealer is backed up with work, but hope he can work me in. I will let Ya'll know, when I know!

Thanks again,
Ron
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Wow, Bert you went way over my head on that first part. I did check the solenoid and it was clean. I will have the dealership do the oil change and the ESsystem. The dealer is backed up with work, but hope he can work me in. I will let Ya'll know, when I know!

Thanks again,
Ron
Well, I had the Dealer do the 9.3K service plus the HCM filter. Would you believe that it shifted like it should have when I took it to the dealer? Of course, they could not find anything wrong. After a bill of almost $550 I'm right back where I started from, I don't trust the bike when I take it out.

ron
 

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ron -- that's definitely an unhappy $550 experience.

But I'm confused. You repeatedly say you don't trust the bike.

When I say I don't trust a motorcycle, I mean that it works most of the time but on occasions its behavior interferes with the ride, sometimes to the extent it ends the ride with a tow truck ride home.

Is that what you mean?

That is, it shifts properly sometimes and not other times? Or it always shifts improperly?

Continuing with questions. You said "I have a 2018 RTL with SE6. Lately I'm having trouble with it shifting in 1st or 2nd. I bought the bike in November of 2020, and it had a low milage of 5,813."

WRT to "Lately I'm having trouble with it shifting in 1st or 2nd.":

1. What month/year and what mileage did the shifting trouble first occur?
2. Was the trouble consistent from that point to today or were there good days and bad days?
3. What was the weather like on the good days? And the bad days?
4. Before that month/year and mileage what was the shifting like? First few miles of the day (ie 1-2 bars on the temperature gauge)? Later in the day (ie 3-4 bars on the temperature gauge)?
5. Have you ridden on "adventurous" roads (eg, rough, gravel, unimproved, standing water, icy, etc)?
6. What are your shift RPMs? What are your steady-state RPMs?
7. Does the trouble occur in 3rd to 6th gear shifts? In Reverse gear shifts?

To help us understand what service and diagnostics the dealer performed for $550, would you post a picture of the service order and diagnostic results. Thanks.
 

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ron -- that's definitely an unhappy $550 experience.

But I'm confused. You repeatedly say you don't trust the bike.

When I say I don't trust a motorcycle, I mean that it works most of the time but on occasions its behavior interferes with the ride, sometimes to the extent it ends the ride with a tow truck ride home.

Is that what you mean?

That is, it shifts properly sometimes and not other times? Or it always shifts improperly?

Continuing with questions. You said "I have a 2018 RTL with SE6. Lately I'm having trouble with it shifting in 1st or 2nd. I bought the bike in November of 2020, and it had a low milage of 5,813."

WRT to "Lately I'm having trouble with it shifting in 1st or 2nd.":

1. What month/year and what mileage did the shifting trouble first occur?
2. Was the trouble consistent from that point to today or were there good days and bad days?
3. What was the weather like on the good days? And the bad days?
4. Before that month/year and mileage what was the shifting like? First few miles of the day (ie 1-2 bars on the temperature gauge)? Later in the day (ie 3-4 bars on the temperature gauge)?
5. Have you ridden on "adventurous" roads (eg, rough, gravel, unimproved, standing water, icy, etc)?
6. What are your shift RPMs? What are your steady-state RPMs?
7. Does the trouble occur in 3rd to 6th gear shifts? In Reverse gear shifts?

To help us understand what service and diagnostics the dealer performed for $550, would you post a picture of the service order and diagnostic results. Thanks.
Hi, Spyder forum, sorry to get back so late but Santa left me a present of a new switch from Ebay. I've asked this from the other forum, has anybody removed the LH Switch. I have started and it looks like a job just to get to the wiring that goes through the opening below the handlebar. Any help would be appreciated.
Thanks
ron
 

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ron -- ask Santa if there's any leftover service manuals. Always good to look at even if it doesn't exactly answer your question.

Before you start Disconnect The Battery!

You don't want any stray voltages running around. Eg, the right-side cruise control switches cross over to the left-side switches to interface into the CANbus.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
ron -- ask Santa if there's any leftover service manuals. Always good to look at even if it doesn't exactly answer your question.

Before you start Disconnect The Battery!

You don't want any stray voltages running around. Eg, the right-side cruise control switches cross over to the left-side switches to interface into the CANbus.
Bart, that's the first thing I did was to disconnect the battery, with almost 40 years in with the phone company that's the first thing I learned. Nic, who I bought the switch sent me a few pictures from the service manual, mostly trouble shooting the switch. One picture shows the plug on bottom front right side. You would think it would be closer to the left side. I'm taking a lot. of pictures and writing everything down, with black on black you need a lot of light.
You know with Valentine Day not too far away I'm sure my wife would love a service manual.

thanks
ron
 

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The left-hand switch set is the CANbus interface for the handlebars including the right-hand switch set. For instance, the cruise control switches are carried from right to left to interface with CANbus. Think of the Spyder as a small (compared to cars) road-going variant of existing outsourced components. Yeah there's some head-scratchers but overall I think BRP did a great job.
 

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Based on the discussion of a similar problem on another forum..............
Having it appear to be stuck in R or 1 so that you can't start it CAN be because the kill switch is OFF or has failed.

I have seen several questions like this lately but never saw this answer until a few days ago.
So I went out and played with mine. Since I never turn the kill switch off on purpose I had never seen it happen.
But to my AMAZEMENT it can be caused by the kill switch.

Maybe turning the kill OFF while in gear and then the ignition......and then turning the ignition back ON first would do it.
I didn't do enough testing to see the exact sequence needed to make it LOOK like a failure.
 
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