Proper engine break-in?
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Politically correct answer : Follow the Owners Manual which says to keep below a certain RPM for the first 300 miles? Don't remember the RPM or mile off the top of my head.
Any Rotax Racing Engine builders have a preferred dyno break-in rpm/time preference you'd mind sharing ?
You can see dyno style routines if you search the web (This is what I usually do)..... found this one in an article on breaking in a BMW rebuild:
BMW motorcycle engine break-in :
"...Install a new oil filter, using the starter (no fuel in carbs so engine will not start) to fill the oil canister area (OIL light goes OUT). Start the engine, using a minimal amount of 'choke', and within seconds move the rpm to about 3000 and hold it there for maybe 15 seconds, then move it upwards to maybe 3500 or even 4000... for perhaps a minute, I shut it off after that first minute, check for oil leaks, then I restart and IMMEDIATELY, no waiting, go for a ride. I DO NOT baby the engine...I use a fair amount of throttle. DO NOT, however, use over about 4500 rpm for the first dozen or so miles. Keep the engine around 3000-4500, as best you can, backing off the throttle fully every few blocks, then increasing throttle so the rpm is back in that range. As you get a couple of miles on the engine, you can use longer stretches without backing fully off the throttle (which 'sucks' oil into the top end). ... The idea is for oil to be sucked into the rings area when the throttle is OFF. It is OK to use a fair amount of throttle, but not wide-open throttle, and do not use extremely high rpm. After a few miles, you can move slightly higher in rpm. Don't idle the engine for long periods of time. After a fair amount of miles, stop, turn off the engine, and again check for oil leaks. If no leaks, continue your ride. I suggest finishing the initial break-in in the usual fashion as in such as the Rider's Manual...modest rpm, vary the rpm, vary the throttle, etc., and avoid very high rpm. After 50 miles or so, return home and change the oil to a quality 20W50 (or proper grade, depending on weather conditions for riding)...but do NOT use a synthetic until the engine is FULLY broken-in, which can take a few thousand miles sometimes. You probably will want to change the filter, and to inspect the pleating (disassemble the filter by prying the metal ends off the filter, then slit the outer wrap, then unroll and inspect all pleats. both sides). It's a good time to check the valve clearances after that 50 miles..."
Any Rotax Racing Engine builders have a preferred dyno break-in rpm/time preference you'd mind sharing ?
You can see dyno style routines if you search the web (This is what I usually do)..... found this one in an article on breaking in a BMW rebuild:
BMW motorcycle engine break-in :
"...Install a new oil filter, using the starter (no fuel in carbs so engine will not start) to fill the oil canister area (OIL light goes OUT). Start the engine, using a minimal amount of 'choke', and within seconds move the rpm to about 3000 and hold it there for maybe 15 seconds, then move it upwards to maybe 3500 or even 4000... for perhaps a minute, I shut it off after that first minute, check for oil leaks, then I restart and IMMEDIATELY, no waiting, go for a ride. I DO NOT baby the engine...I use a fair amount of throttle. DO NOT, however, use over about 4500 rpm for the first dozen or so miles. Keep the engine around 3000-4500, as best you can, backing off the throttle fully every few blocks, then increasing throttle so the rpm is back in that range. As you get a couple of miles on the engine, you can use longer stretches without backing fully off the throttle (which 'sucks' oil into the top end). ... The idea is for oil to be sucked into the rings area when the throttle is OFF. It is OK to use a fair amount of throttle, but not wide-open throttle, and do not use extremely high rpm. After a few miles, you can move slightly higher in rpm. Don't idle the engine for long periods of time. After a fair amount of miles, stop, turn off the engine, and again check for oil leaks. If no leaks, continue your ride. I suggest finishing the initial break-in in the usual fashion as in such as the Rider's Manual...modest rpm, vary the rpm, vary the throttle, etc., and avoid very high rpm. After 50 miles or so, return home and change the oil to a quality 20W50 (or proper grade, depending on weather conditions for riding)...but do NOT use a synthetic until the engine is FULLY broken-in, which can take a few thousand miles sometimes. You probably will want to change the filter, and to inspect the pleating (disassemble the filter by prying the metal ends off the filter, then slit the outer wrap, then unroll and inspect all pleats. both sides). It's a good time to check the valve clearances after that 50 miles..."
thanks spidey, The wife an I are driving to pick the spyder up tommorow. it's a 350mi one way ride home. This machine has 6.4 mi on the odometer, so it has to break in as we head home.
break-in
That's all some pretty old information about break-in, as you can tell by the mention of "carbs" and the admonishment about not using synthetic oil until after it's broken in. Today a lot of vehicles, cars and motorcycles, come right from the factory with synthetic oil (as does the Spyder). Most riders today tell you to "break it in like you're going to ride it." All new vehicles are tested at the factory on a dyno to make sure they run as designed, so they've already been red-lined before you get it. Go to this website to see the modern way to break in engines: Break In Secrets--How To Break In New Motorcycle and Car Engines For More Power
My dad was breaking in newly rebuilt car engines this way back in the 50s before he'd return the car to the owner so that it would be broken in correctly, so this isn't really "new."
Checking the valve clearance after 50 miles is also ludicrous. This past post of information is really outdated.
That's all some pretty old information about break-in, as you can tell by the mention of "carbs" and the admonishment about not using synthetic oil until after it's broken in. Today a lot of vehicles, cars and motorcycles, come right from the factory with synthetic oil (as does the Spyder). Most riders today tell you to "break it in like you're going to ride it." All new vehicles are tested at the factory on a dyno to make sure they run as designed, so they've already been red-lined before you get it. Go to this website to see the modern way to break in engines: Break In Secrets--How To Break In New Motorcycle and Car Engines For More Power
My dad was breaking in newly rebuilt car engines this way back in the 50s before he'd return the car to the owner so that it would be broken in correctly, so this isn't really "new."
Checking the valve clearance after 50 miles is also ludicrous. This past post of information is really outdated.
Well, break-in done. Picked up our new to us spyder, yesterday. I drove it from boise,id to missoula mt 380mi . took 7hrs. wow what a trip. one leg between stanly, id to salmon, id I got an increadible 40mpg. I found the best mileage was obtained keeping the rpm's over4500, an under 6500 with the se5, I think I might have used the brakes 3 times. So far its every thing I thought it would be. Gene P.S. odometer had 6.4miles when I started out, so first 20 mi, spent driving around the city, before hitting the open road
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