My Spyder is overheating at low RPM. They have replaced the water pump and the temperature sensor replaced the coolant and burped the hell out of it! It’s been in the shop over a month now. I know they have been in contact with BRP. Can anyone point me in the right direction to so I can ride again?
Overheating Spyder F3S
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2015 can Am Spyder F3S. 25000 miles. Started having problems when the battery died in 2020. Has overheated 23 times at 800 to 900 RPM. The fan is working. What else would you like to know?
Pressure cap ?
Thermostat stuck ?
Find a different shop ??
Is the fan REALLY working right ? If the blades are loose on the motor shaft it won't move much air.
Thermostat stuck ?
Find a different shop ??
Is the fan REALLY working right ? If the blades are loose on the motor shaft it won't move much air.
It’s at a dealer. Everything is working. Not a lot of people who work on Spyder here in Arizona. The thermostat is in the water pump, I have had 2 water pumps put in. The first one was defective. My mechanic is in contact with BRP for help with it.
Well obviously EVERYTHING is NOT working or it wouldn't be doing that.
Good luck.
Who told you that the thermostat is IN the water pump ?
I am suspicious of that "information".
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That's not much information (eg, what are the overheating symptoms -- 5 bars on the gauge or steam coming out both sides of the engine?).
Be that as it may, running with a 5 year old battery ain't a good thing maintenance wise for the heavy current Spyder (2015s didn't get the low current high torque DPS).
So I'm thinking one hot day in AZ you went from freeway speed to stop-and-go in traffic without any cool-off transition. Perhaps the coolant was low. And I'm assuming an F3S is the SE6 transmission. So all the residual heat normally dissipated via high air flow, high engine RPM suddenly went into the coolant in a low air flow, low engine RPM and probably hot road surface environment.
Either then or soon after something failed. Could be a seal on the oil-to-coolant heat exchanger (check oil for contamination). Could be a head gasket (check spark plugs for contamination). Could be a fuel injector failing at low voltage (don't know how to check this). Could be a radiator hose inner-outer wall separation blockage (normally manifested at high RPM but ???). Could be a marginal MAPTS or more likely CPS. Could be a solenoid seal or valve failed in the HCM resulting in heat generating clutch drag at idle RPM when oil pressure is low (perhaps using Motul 7100 15W-50 will help).
In summary I think you've managed to damage the tough Rotax 1330. Hopefully the fix is cheap.
BTW the thermostat is integrated into the water pump and everything is plastic.
Be that as it may, running with a 5 year old battery ain't a good thing maintenance wise for the heavy current Spyder (2015s didn't get the low current high torque DPS).
So I'm thinking one hot day in AZ you went from freeway speed to stop-and-go in traffic without any cool-off transition. Perhaps the coolant was low. And I'm assuming an F3S is the SE6 transmission. So all the residual heat normally dissipated via high air flow, high engine RPM suddenly went into the coolant in a low air flow, low engine RPM and probably hot road surface environment.
Either then or soon after something failed. Could be a seal on the oil-to-coolant heat exchanger (check oil for contamination). Could be a head gasket (check spark plugs for contamination). Could be a fuel injector failing at low voltage (don't know how to check this). Could be a radiator hose inner-outer wall separation blockage (normally manifested at high RPM but ???). Could be a marginal MAPTS or more likely CPS. Could be a solenoid seal or valve failed in the HCM resulting in heat generating clutch drag at idle RPM when oil pressure is low (perhaps using Motul 7100 15W-50 will help).
In summary I think you've managed to damage the tough Rotax 1330. Hopefully the fix is cheap.
BTW the thermostat is integrated into the water pump and everything is plastic.
Thank you for the post. We were on our way to Ontario CA, the bike ran great until we slowed down at Blythe. It over heated when we slowed. my nephew came and picked me up with a trailer. We bought the water pump at Bert’s auto mall in Covina. I was put on at LandmotoX in Upland. It over heated taking it back to Riverside. My roadside assistance sucked so I let it cool. Off and made it to my friend’s house. We had a friend bring a truck and trailer to pick my bike up and take it back to Arizona. We left it on the trailer until we took it to the shop, June 9th.
All of this started on May 16. We were going onthe Run For the Wall in DC. I have heard of this problem with other Spyders. I was hopingsom had a special fix, what I don’t want is a guy like “easyrider giving me a ration of crap.
What exactly have I said that you consider to be in any way "a ration of crap"?
The answers that you want to hear might not be the right ones.
Good luck.
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Janis -- ignore what I said about HCM -- I keep forgetting hydraulic pressure forces the clutch plates together rather than release them. The HCM is a complex hydraulic-mechanical device like a car automatic transmission with that maze-like control mechanism so overheating may affect it or the clutch plates. But that would cause shifting not overheating problems.
The exhaust pipe outlet color may also indicate a head leak but the catalytic convertor might interfere.
You never described the overheating symptoms (ie how are they manifested?).
Are you getting any coolant leaks? After an overheating event, do you have to add coolant? If you are adding coolant without seeing any leaks that's not good because the coolant is getting inside the engine -- combustion chamber or lubrication system.
If you are seeing leaks then maybe you won't have to take apart the engine. It depends...
If you don't have to add coolant, then the problem is in the cooling system itself. I'd start with the water pump (apparently they're hard to install and are fragile). I'd also remove the oil-to-coolant heat exchanger because it has small openings like a radiator. With them removed do a complete drain and reverse flush with tap water and moderate (< 20psi) air pressure. It would be best to remove both radiators (be careful with the crossover manifold -- it's plastic) and flush them too. You're looking for any bits and pieces that might be blocking the coolant passages or any softness or kinks in the hoses. Use constant torque hose clamps if you don't use Oetiker. Refill with fresh coolant. If the problem is resolved, drain and refill coolant after 1K miles -- you don't want this to happen again.
The exhaust pipe outlet color may also indicate a head leak but the catalytic convertor might interfere.
You never described the overheating symptoms (ie how are they manifested?).
Are you getting any coolant leaks? After an overheating event, do you have to add coolant? If you are adding coolant without seeing any leaks that's not good because the coolant is getting inside the engine -- combustion chamber or lubrication system.
If you are seeing leaks then maybe you won't have to take apart the engine. It depends...
If you don't have to add coolant, then the problem is in the cooling system itself. I'd start with the water pump (apparently they're hard to install and are fragile). I'd also remove the oil-to-coolant heat exchanger because it has small openings like a radiator. With them removed do a complete drain and reverse flush with tap water and moderate (< 20psi) air pressure. It would be best to remove both radiators (be careful with the crossover manifold -- it's plastic) and flush them too. You're looking for any bits and pieces that might be blocking the coolant passages or any softness or kinks in the hoses. Use constant torque hose clamps if you don't use Oetiker. Refill with fresh coolant. If the problem is resolved, drain and refill coolant after 1K miles -- you don't want this to happen again.
Get ready for another "ration of crap".
Are you aware that the fan runs BACKWARDS when the Spyder is standing still.......and maybe at very low speed too ??
Maybe the relay that accomplishes that reversal has failed and instead of reversing at low speed, it really shuts the fan OFF ???
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Most excellent point. I mistakenly assumed fan operation was checked for both air flow direction and activation temperatures. The fans are controlled by the ECM (three relays: R3 R5 R6) which inputs coolant temperature and transmits it to the instrument cluster via CANbus. And then there's the possibility the fans or radiator finning are in poor condition.
We still don't know what overheating means to Janis. How is it being manifested? Very frustrating.
We still don't know what overheating means to Janis. How is it being manifested? Very frustrating.
You don't say exactly where you are in AZ. IF you are going to the chain of dealerships that covers most of the state, try going elsewhere even if it involves a lot of travel.Some days I wonder why I even bother.
So......you think you will have any better confidence in the suggestions you get HERE if you are going to insult those who try to help you out ??
Maybe all of the problem is not on the dealers side.
Just maybe.
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How. pray tell, have I insulted you?
I think that is pretty clear.
If that was directed at YOU, would you not consider it an insult ??
OH SHOOT.
It looks like I have mixed up "Jane" and "Janis".
Please accept my most humble apology.
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