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2014 Spyder RT Limited SE 6 Silver matte 2012 Spyder RT Limited SE5 Bronze Lava Metallic.
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Posting here but could be in the general discussion forum. I have been doing some reading on oil for the 1330 and the effect of viscosity. Anyone have any thoughts on the use of 20/50 and how it affects the clutch on the SE6? I have seen some discussion on using 2 quarts of the 20/50 along with 10/40 as it lengthens the time before the shear factor breaks down. Why not just all 20/50? I live in a warm climate that rarely goes below 15c and the summers are usually 25-32c most days. Planning an oil change next week to start the year off right. Thoughts?

Happy New Year everyone!
 

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'17 RT Limited
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First, your profile says you have a 2012 SE5.

Second, there is absolutely NO reason to use any weight of oil except what BRP recommends in a relatively new engine.
Screwing around with it can cause problems......and will accomplish NOTHING useful.
Regardless of the ambient air temperature, the engine temp does not vary that much.

So do your engine a favor and use full synthetic MOTORCYCLE oil of the weight that BRP recommends.
The book with my 1330 says to use 5W40.

If you absolutely must screw around with it, a full synthetic 10W40 will be fine too.
Mobil 1 is a good 10W40 motorcycle oil but there are others too.
Motorcycle oil. Car oil can damage the clutch.
 

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Motul 7100 15W50 is what you want!
Automotive tire Tire Product Font Automotive wheel system

I'm the third owner of 2014 RT-S SE6 77K miles with unknown maintenance history. Shortly after I purchased it I changed oil (both filters) to BRP partially synthetic 5W40. At 78K miles the cold oil pressure had dropped from 58 to 50psi and I wasn't happy with inconsistent shifting (sometimes abrupt and sometimes smooth). At about 80K miles I changed oil (both filters) to Lamonster/Spectro fully synthetic 5W40. No improvement in oil pressure or shifting. At about 83K miles (current miles about 85K) I changed oil (both filters) to Motul 7100 15W50. Big improvement in both oil pressure (about 4 psi higher than 5W40 hot and cold) and shifting (usually smooth although still occasionally abrupt).

PS Aprila specified 20W50 when they used the 990 Rotax V-twin.
 

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2014 Spyder RT Limited SE 6 Silver matte 2012 Spyder RT Limited SE5 Bronze Lava Metallic.
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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
First, your profile says you have a 2012 SE5.

Second, there is absolutely NO reason to use any weight of oil except what BRP recommends in a relatively new engine.
Screwing around with it can cause problems......and will accomplish NOTHING useful.
Regardless of the ambient air temperature, the engine temp does not vary that much.

So do your engine a favor and use full synthetic MOTORCYCLE oil of the weight that BRP recommends.
The book with my 1330 says to use 5W40.

If you absolutely must screw around with it, a full synthetic 10W40 will be fine too.
Mobil 1 is a good 10W40 motorcycle oil but there are others too.
Motorcycle oil. Car oil can damage the clutch.
Still trying to figure out how to update my profile. I still have the 2012 but now also have a 2014 As per the picture.

thanks for the feedback. What I was looking for. Some of the other replies indicated clutch problems and I know it could throw a clutch code due to oil viscosity. I have also read about viscosity drop over time (3-4000 km) that may also affect clutch performance. So for this change, I’ll stick to the synthetic 10/40. Can’t get actual BRP oil here in Mexico.
 

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So for this change, I’ll stick to the synthetic 10/40. Can’t get actual BRP oil here in Mexico.
Unless you put 90W gear lube in the crankcase, the viscosity alone should NOT have any impact on the clutch in normal operation. And synthetics do not suffer from viscosity changing sheer in normal operation like dino oil does.

BUT super slick additives, like moly, WILL ruin a clutch in short order.
So it is REALLY important NOT to use automotive oil.
You need oil approved for use in a motorcycle with a wet clutch.
 

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Easy -- I know the SE6 gearbox has its own double rotor pump that increases engine oil pressure to the levels required to operate the gearbox components. And it has its own oil temperature sensor that is used to determine which map should be used for the pressure control. And the clutch has its own oil pressure sensor as input to that control.

For all three of the oils I tried (BRP 5W40, LM/Spectro 5W40, Motul 15W50) the first shifts of the day are butter smooth. Then as the engine heats up (and engine oil pressure drops) the shifts are less smooth. I've noted that after a few miles of freeway riding on cruise control, the shifts are smooth for a mile or so when I return to surface streets.

Motul provides smooth shifts most of the time as well as higher engine oil pressures. Perhaps it isn't breaking down as quickly as BRP and LM/Spectro but I think it's more likely the higher viscosity helps, especially with my old engine and clutch (as well as Motul being a superior motorcycle oil).

There's also the possibility I need an updated map and new gearbox oil temperature and pressure sensors (both externally accessible). I'll have to investigate this.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Unless you put 90W gear lube in the crankcase, the viscosity alone should NOT have any impact on the clutch in normal operation. And synthetics do not suffer from viscosity changing sheer in normal operation like dino oil does.

BUT super slick additives, like moly, WILL ruin a clutch in short order.
So it is REALLY important NOT to use automotive oil.
You need oil approved for use in a motorcycle with a wet clutch.
I have never been a big fan of additives at the best of times, other than maybe injector cleaner. So going to head out tomorrow to find the proper oil for my change.

i appreciate all of your comments!
 

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I have never been a big fan of additives at the best of times,
Just to be sure we are on the same page here........
The additives that you need to avoid are already IN some/most car oils right from the factory.
You NEED an oil that is labeled for motorcycle use.
 

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Anyone tried Amsoil?
Yes. Used it for a few years when my dealer kept it in stock (Kawasaki).
MUST be their "motorcycle" oil though.
It is one of several good synthetics available these days.
 
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