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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Ryders, I know I'm a noob treading well trampled ground here, and I've read many of the threads but am hoping for new insight because I've seen few solutions to the Spyder Limp Home Mode/ABS fault/VSS fault/Check DPS string of error codes, so pls. bear with me:

The bike: new to me '08 Spyder SE5, exc. condition, 26,000 mi.

Me: competent tool user -- motorcycle mechanic for 40+ years, owned a Ducati/Moto Guzzi shop in the 1980s and 90s, have owned 50 or more bikes, mostly Iatalian and Brit, along with a Beemer and a couple of Hondas: can successfuly adjust Ducati desmodromic valves, have rebuilt two dozen bevel-drive Ducati twins for customers, so above average mechanical skills, though definitely not familiar with the level of electronics found in the Spyder.

I get my new to me bike home and note it wasn't running well. Peeling off the airbox cover, I discover a large mouse housing project on the unfiltered intake side. Aha: time to address some deferred maintenance, so: new plugs; new airfilter; clean the airbox; adjust the parking brake so it holds; new fuel filter, injection line and clamps reasoning that 26K mi is long enough for the original equip.

Then I take the seemingly fatal step of adjusting belt tension from screaming tight, and belt spacing away from rubbing the inner edge of the pulley using the jack-it-up-and-idle method found on you tube. I also replaced the front brake pads, something I've done on many motorbikes and cars, and found the Spyder to be fairly straight forward...

Took it for a ride, and immediately proved the adage that no good deed goes unpunished: the instrument cluster lit up with Limp Home Mode/ABS fault/VSS fault/Check DPS...so I followed advice from one of the forums and checked the clearance on the front wheel and the two rear wheel speed sensors: rear wheel sensors OK; front wheel sensors tight so I shimmed them out to the minimum 1.3mm. Diconnected the batt for 20 hours, started the bike and got exactly the same series of error codes.

My questions: Do I have to take it to the dealer? What magic will they perform?

Is there a way to retrieve error codes on early Spyders like mine? The Can Am salute does not work, as far as I can tell...

Has anyone come out from under this dark cloud of error codes? what did you do? What else should I do?

Thanks in advance: the forums are a blessing!
 

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Ryders, I know I'm a noob treading well trampled ground here, and I've read many of the threads but am hoping for new insight because I've seen few solutions to the Spyder Limp Home Mode/ABS fault/VSS fault/Check DPS string of error codes, so pls. bear with me:

The bike: new to me '08 Spyder SE5, exc. condition, 26,000 mi.

Me: competent tool user -- motorcycle mechanic for 40+ years, owned a Ducati/Moto Guzzi shop in the 1980s and 90s, have owned 50 or more bikes, mostly Iatalian and Brit, along with a Beemer and a couple of Hondas: can successfuly adjust Ducati desmodromic valves, have rebuilt two dozen bevel-drive Ducati twins for customers, so above average mechanical skills, though definitely not familiar with the level of electronics found in the Spyder.

I get my new to me bike home and note it wasn't running well. Peeling off the airbox cover, I discover a large mouse housing project on the unfiltered intake side. Aha: time to address some deferred maintenance, so: new plugs; new airfilter; clean the airbox; adjust the parking brake so it holds; new fuel filter, injection line and clamps reasoning that 26K mi is long enough for the original equip.

Then I take the seemingly fatal step of adjusting belt tension from screaming tight, and belt spacing away from rubbing the inner edge of the pulley using the jack-it-up-and-idle method found on you tube. I also replaced the front brake pads, something I've done on many motorbikes and cars, and found the Spyder to be fairly straight forward...

Took it for a ride, and immediately proved the adage that no good deed goes unpunished: the instrument cluster lit up with Limp Home Mode/ABS fault/VSS fault/Check DPS...so I followed advice from one of the forums and checked the clearance on the front wheel and the two rear wheel speed sensors: rear wheel sensors OK; front wheel sensors tight so I shimmed them out to the minimum 1.3mm. Diconnected the batt for 20 hours, started the bike and got exactly the same series of error codes.

My questions: Do I have to take it to the dealer? What magic will they perform?

Is there a way to retrieve error codes on early Spyders like mine? The Can Am salute does not work, as far as I can tell...

Has anyone come out from under this dark cloud of error codes? what did you do? What else should I do?

Thanks in advance: the forums are a blessing!
I also would like to know. I have a 2021 Spyder and get same error codes, with also rubbing noise on front tires. Mechanics at dealer are stumped. I do know when they put on new rotors and break pads rubbing goes away, and “idiot” lights do not have those error codes, UNTIL, I had an emergency hard stop with brakes and “idiot” lights came on again, including “limp home mode and VSS! 🤨
 

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I've read many of the threads but am hoping for new insight because I've seen few solutions to the Spyder Limp Home Mode/ABS fault/VSS fault/Check DPS string of error codes,

Has anyone come out from under this dark cloud of error codes? what did you do? What else should I do?

Thanks in advance: the forums are a blessing!
I'm pretty sure that the answer you need is probably on here somewhere.......but I'm not positive so here goes:

That group of faults all showing up at or near to the same times almost ALWAYS indicates a problem with the 12 V power.
Battery getting old and weak or just having been run down by leaving some "stuff" on with the engine off.
OR....one of the connections on a main power cable loose or corroded.
OR.....the charging system not charging.

So....you need to charge up the battery and get it tested.
If it is over 4 years old, just replace it.
Check (loosen, clean and retighten) both ends of both main power cables.
With the engine running, check the charging voltage.

It might be necessary to visit a dealer to get the codes cleared.....but probably not.
Often just riding it a while will reset things.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Easy Rider,
Thanks, but batt is new, shows 13.4V on my charge connector ammeter and all leads and grounds are clean and greased -- I agree that batt condition/power is critical for bikes such as this with a ton of electronics; thanks for your answer. (this shows the DC voltmeter I wired to a standard batt charger harness though this is my car and not the spyder, which is why it shows 12.8V and not 13.4V, but it's easy to do with an eBay voltmeter and a parts store batt charger harness) Gauge Measuring instrument Gas Service Auto part
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I put about 40 mi on it yesterday, short shifting you may be sure to evade the Nanny's speed limit with no effect, though the bike seems to run,steer and stop fine. After reading several posts, I found this weird Harold way to read codes on a first-gen Spyder like mine, and shock of shock: IT WORKS!! here it is:
turn the ignition switch to the on position - scroll with the mode button on the front of the left multifunction switch until "engine hours" is displayed on the cluster.
start the engine and run until the check engine light illuminates or another fault message is displayed.
while the engine hours are being displayed, push and hold the mode button on the front of the left multifunction switch.
push the high beam/low beam/flash high beam switch to the "flash high beam position" rapidly 5 times - record any codes displayed on the cluster.
release and press the mode button to cycle through additional codes.

note: only active codes will be displayed on the cluster, the engine must either be running with an active code or cranked until a code is set. cycling the ignition switch to the off position will cause the code to become occurred and no code will be displayed on the cluster.


It gave me three codes (yes it does seem like a lot) which I now have to look up: C0044;P253445; and U0122, but knowing the problem is the first step in fixing it, right?
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Nope, not in this case: voltmeter is plugged into charcing harness in place of batt charger, so that's actual batt voltage as far as I know...and I often grease batt connections to avoid corrosion.
 

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Nope, not in this case: voltmeter is plugged into charcing harness in place of batt charger, so that's actual batt voltage as far as I know...and I often grease batt connections to avoid corrosion.
Nope yourself.

IF.....you measure the battery voltage immediately after disconnecting a float charger, you will still
see the charger float voltage for a few minutes. It is called "surface charge" and is not useful energy.
It will go back down to the real resting battery voltage if you turn the ignition ON without starting it for 30 seconds or so.

And I don't care how many times you have put grease on a battery cable connection and gotten away with it........
that probably causes all of the current to flow through the BOLT and that is not a good thing to do.
It just isn't. Grease does NOT conduct electricity.
 

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Yep, you were 100 percent right: owner said batt was new, label says it's a 4-year-old Chinese cheapie: thanks.
Let's hope a good new battery fixes the problem. :)

Then, please consider NOT putting grease onto the conducting surfaces......of anything.
The grease goes on the OUTSIDE after everything is tightened down.
(y)
 

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Ryders, I know I'm a noob treading well trampled ground here, and I've read many of the threads but am hoping for new insight because I've seen few solutions to the Spyder Limp Home Mode/ABS fault/VSS fault/Check DPS string of error codes, so pls. bear with me:

The bike: new to me '08 Spyder SE5, exc. condition, 26,000 mi.

Me: competent tool user -- motorcycle mechanic for 40+ years, owned a Ducati/Moto Guzzi shop in the 1980s and 90s, have owned 50 or more bikes, mostly Iatalian and Brit, along with a Beemer and a couple of Hondas: can successfuly adjust Ducati desmodromic valves, have rebuilt two dozen bevel-drive Ducati twins for customers, so above average mechanical skills, though definitely not familiar with the level of electronics found in the Spyder.

I get my new to me bike home and note it wasn't running well. Peeling off the airbox cover, I discover a large mouse housing project on the unfiltered intake side. Aha: time to address some deferred maintenance, so: new plugs; new airfilter; clean the airbox; adjust the parking brake so it holds; new fuel filter, injection line and clamps reasoning that 26K mi is long enough for the original equip.

Then I take the seemingly fatal step of adjusting belt tension from screaming tight, and belt spacing away from rubbing the inner edge of the pulley using the jack-it-up-and-idle method found on you tube. I also replaced the front brake pads, something I've done on many motorbikes and cars, and found the Spyder to be fairly straight forward...

Took it for a ride, and immediately proved the adage that no good deed goes unpunished: the instrument cluster lit up with Limp Home Mode/ABS fault/VSS fault/Check DPS...so I followed advice from one of the forums and checked the clearance on the front wheel and the two rear wheel speed sensors: rear wheel sensors OK; front wheel sensors tight so I shimmed them out to the minimum 1.3mm. Diconnected the batt for 20 hours, started the bike and got exactly the same series of error codes.

My questions: Do I have to take it to the dealer? What magic will they perform?

Is there a way to retrieve error codes on early Spyders like mine? The Can Am salute does not work, as far as I can tell...

Has anyone come out from under this dark cloud of error codes? what did you do? What else should I do?

Thanks in advance: the forums are a blessing!
I had the same issue on a trip to Missouri 2 weeks ago. I have a 2021 RT. The local dealer found a fault with the ABS brake sensor ( sensors are always a pain) He replaced it and I have ridden 1200 miles without any issues. I think the dealer is the only route to go to have them assess it. Just an FYI.
 
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