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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I am writing his on behalf of my Wife, regarding her 2017 Spyder RT.

She was on a recent trip with some of her friends from her ladies motorcycle group when she discovered hat the left control housing would spin on the bar,

Has anyone here encountered this and if so, what was the solution?


Due to some circumstances beyond her control, her Spyder is low mileage and had just under 11,000 km on it when this happened.

She had no choice but to resort to a Duck Tape repair to complete her trip.

Her dealer informed her there is something in the housing that breaks, necessitating the complete replacement of the housing assemble; part cost is in excess of $1,400.00

I'm a BMW "motorcycle guy", not well versed on Can Am's so I am not familiar with this problem, but that is a very costly solution IMHO.

She is a very experienced rider (formerly 2 wheels) and takes good care of her bikes, her riding is all paved roads.

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Welcome to the forum from North Carolina. Glad you decided to join. I have read of this condition on the forum. Here is a thread about it.
I see the price on this assembly at $659.
How did the dealer come up with $1400?



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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks


How did the dealer come up with $1400?
They just did ;), called with that price today. Their shop maintenance cost have gone up dramatically in the last year. They seem to think they have a captive market in this area.

She is going to check with a dealer that we have visited, which is two hours away. She is not adverse to traveling to get a bike serviced, she used to travel a bit longer than that to go to our favorite dealer for her BMW R1200RT.

The local dealership has likely lost a loyal customer.

I certainly am not impressed that a part like this can fail at such a low mileage and that the fix is the complete replacement of an expensive component.
 

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2018 Can Am F 3 Limited 6 speed
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You may be able to fab up some sort of a pin from the assembly and a new hole in the bar, or replace the old locking pin which may be snapped. I would pull is apart and have a sticky beak. Its just a locating pin after all.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Gerald Mac

Thanks, I was considering that.

I can't find any good parts diagrams for this component.

I am fine with taking things apart but I wasn't sure if I did, that there wouldn't be a few small "bits & pieces" that would be loose and drop out once all the screws are removed.
 

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I certainly am not impressed that a part like this can fail at such a low mileage and that the fix is the complete replacement of an expensive component.
Get used to it.
It is that way with most vehicles these days.
Costs for parts and labor are outrageous.
So is the cost of a new vehicle.

So a serious suggestion:
IF.....the plastic assembly comes apart by removing a few screws in a "clam shell" fashion,
you should be able to take it apart and wrap the bar with something that will hold it in place snugly when the "clam shell" is closed around the bar again.
I have found that the best thing for that is double-sided "carpet" tape, often fiberglass tape with a strong adhesive.
Cost for a roll: Less than $20 probably.......for a savings of over $1000 !!!!

IF the bars at that point are chrome, it needs to be scuffed up with sand paper or a file so that the tape doesn't move around.
 

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Haha. Good morning. Sticky beak, well I used it there to replace take a peek - have a look - a shufty - a quick look. Kiwi cockney rhyming slang I guess.

I guess I could have typed select the correct tools, remove the fitting from the vehicle, disassemble and inspect for any changes or damage.

That tape idea could work/help keep it in position. Nice. $20 for a roll of tape! I think I may consider folding a 6" bit of the ever popular Duct Tape 3 times lengthwise.

If a locating pin has broken I would expect it fall out. The rest of the clamshell shouldnt fly appart when removed from the bar.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
OK, this is not a big deal to take apart, nothing drops out etc.

The locator is broken but all there.

First picture shows the broken piece.

Second picture shows the broken piece set back in place, circled in red.

I am thinking if JB Weld sticks to the material, it could be used in a relatively large quantity to fix it in place and reinforce it. There is a void there where it could be added where it would not interfere with anything housed in the unit.

I think it is poor that they would only sell the whole assembly when all that is needed is the half section, which does not hold any electrical components.

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I am thinking if JB Weld sticks to the material, it could be used in a relatively large quantity to fix it in place and reinforce it.
Good stuff. (y) Thats what I would do I reckon.

Reminder to myself - try to be gentle on the shift buttons. Himml

Im sorta new here and dont know if that occurs often or not. Anybody shed some light on that?
 

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OK, this is not a big deal to take apart, nothing drops out etc.

The locator is broken but all there.

First picture shows the broken piece.

Second picture shows the broken piece set back in place, circled in red.

I am thinking if JB Weld sticks to the material, it could be used in a relatively large quantity to fix it in place and reinforce it. There is a void there where it could be added where it would not interfere with anything housed in the unit.

I think it is poor that they would only sell the whole assembly when all that is needed is the half section, which does not hold any electrical components.

View attachment 7129


View attachment 7130
If it is ABS plastic I wonder if it can be plastic welded. Would probably last longer than JB weld. Also maybe a screw with a nut on the inside. Long screw would act as the new pin as long as you don't think the surrounding area is to brittle.

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Glue alone probably won't be a permanent fix, no matter what kind you use.

My suggeston: First find a sheet metal screw of just EXACTLY the right size so that it will screw into the broken part from the outside snugly but not too tight so as not to break the "nub". Then find a washer to go under the screw head.
Finding the right screw might not be as easy as it sounds.
Then JB weld the whole thing together with the screw.

Might be able to accomplish about the same thing with a machine screw, nut and two washers to completely replace the broken pin.

Second idea: Ask here and other Spyder forums if anybody has a bad assembly laying around that they have changed out with the pin still intact. Ask local dealers too.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Its back together, as shown in the first picture.

I did not take a picture of the JB Weld and I'm not taking it apart again just to photograph it, so the second picture will have to do ;)

The second picture shows the pin back in place, held with a few drops of Gold Tip Grip Adhesive, a very strong product used to install aluminum inserts in carbon arrow shafts.

The Gold Tip Grip Adhesive was ONLY used to hold the pin in place while a generous volume of JB Weld was packed into he voids in the area circled in red in the second picture.

I have a theory about how the pin was originally broken. She had he dealer install the BRP Adjustable Bar Assembly.

From what I can see, the pin may not bottom out in it's recess in the bar. If this is correct, excessive tightening on he screw that passes through it could pull he pin free of he housing, causing it to break. Just a theory, that I can't prove but I don't see how she would have broken this part.

When I installed the new screw through he pin, I was very careful no to over torque it and used a lock washer to try keep the screw from backing out,

The one local dealer is not of much assistance, they wanted to sell us the entire assembly for $1,400.00 .

There is a dealer out of own that has a better reputation, I am checking with them to see if they can get just the front half of the housing. They may become her new dealer, she's not adverse to a bit of traveling.


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