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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
You have to drive below 60 or 5,000 RPM's and handle the throttle like it was an egg shell. Allow the trans to do the down shifting on the autoshift and maybe even bite the bullet and pay the king's ransom for the premium grade of fuel. After the engine is thoroughly broken in say maybe 7,000 miles at least with the quick 3,000 mile oil changes BuRP recommends seating the rings is delayed quite awhile. You then may see an increase in the MPG due to seating of the rings completely in the bores. If you are 250 and 6'2" like me it doesn't help either. If you travel with all kinds of weight on board it doesn't help either. The RT to begin with has about a 3 inch wider track than the RS and weighes about 240 pounds more too. None of this stuff helps and it gets worse drag figures as the speed and RPM's go up too.

Driving a mostly mountain road system topping out at about 50 MPH I have been now getting as much as 31 MPG from several tanks as of late. I can feel the engine pulling stronger under load so things must be finally getting happier in there and seated the way they should be finally at 7,000+ miles. This is why BuRP has a parasynthetic oil recommended for the trike till about 10,000 miles or so. Synthetic oils are so good they solve any friction and do not allow that necessary seating to take place in any engine during the initial miles on the engine. I do not agree with the 3,000 mile intervals of change with the Spyder as that tends to increase the time it takes to make the internals happy. It should be longer when you consider just the engine to hurry break-in a bit. But we are also oiling and serving the transmission so maybe that is why BuRP has the short 3,000 mile oil change interval.

As soon as I head out onto the interstate and run the 70+ MPH speed limits the MPG goes down to about 27 MPG or so. Indicating the weight, aerodynamic, and parasite drag this neat looking body puts on the economy of the trike. Just the weight of myself and all the crap I tend to carry more than likely doesn't help either. I run the trike at the following specs:

Tire pressures 18 front and 28 rear
preload springs set at 5, as high as they go
Rear air pressure shock set one down off all the way up
I run regular fuel and have seen no great increase with premium when I have run it.

Recently I discovered Startron Enxyme fuel treatment and have added that several tanks of fuel and got one tank running around the mountain roads that got an honest 34 MPG. I do not believe in snake oils or additives but the dealer said a bunch of guys have been running it to counteract the negative effects of the alcohol the Feds have been adding to our fuel. So I tried it and so far no negative effects other than the $20 the bottle of treatment cost me. It is supposed to treat 256 gallons of fuel so with only 6.5 gallons of fuel on board it should last awhile. Like I said I don't believe in this kind of stuff but I thought why not try it? Haven't tried it yet in the old tired Toyota truck but maybe this week I will, If it gets any better MPG with that old tired workhorse I will be impressed.

It frankly comes down to this statement in my eyes on MPG on an RT, drive slow and stay off the throttle and maybe you do get 30+ MPG. Drive it like it looks and MPG suffers, put the trailer on and it goes down to 25 MPG (I got 22 MPG loaded through the mountains) or less regardless of speed or terrain.

I didn't buy this thing to drive like the little old lady next store so I generally get about 28 MPG or so which is about equal to the 175,000 miles 2002 Toyota truck I drive everyday. You can tell me about your great mileage you are getting but I know regardless of what you say your driving style is how you are really driving. These things can not be that different to make the MPG that different than from my now second Spyder. I check every tank of fuel and keep track of it and know how I drove that tank out so figures don't lie only people do.

All in all even with the very poor MPG it still is a wonderful eye catching ride to enjoy when I can! Bill
 

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I agree that short-shifting and keeping the revs down helps a bunch. From an aerodynamic perspective you can help yourself by keeping the windshield down as low as possible. I have found that premium fuel (91 octane) helps my mileage by almost 10%; that makes the purchase of it worthwhile.
By the way; this "Little Old Lady" driver is getting 35mpg or better...with a recent best of 38.2 :D



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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Bob how you drive is your business and I mean no personal afront, but doesn't it strike you a bit ridiculous that such a sexy, fast, swoopy, and appealing piece of equipment can't be designed in a way to be efficient enough with fuel at the time when we appear to need that the most. I drove a Rotax engined sport racer weighing in at about 1,200 pounds, topped out at about 143 down the straight, and still managed to get over 34 MPG using technology long deemed now obsolete and we have to drive like little old ladies to come close to equaling that in this day and age of computers?

By the way let me caution you about something that could come up to bite your butt someday. This engine is designed to operate at high RPM's and short shifting and lugging the engine around will put added strain on the drive train and could indeed make the engine fail before its time. So in the long run, even though you are taking it easy this engine may fail you because of it! Quite ironic isn't it? Bill
 

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None taken Zee... :D
When they put the frunk and big bodywork on and topped it with a nice touring windsheld, they knew that the aerodynamics of the creature weren't going to be conducive to smiles at the gas station...
As far as lugging the engine; it ain't a British sports car with very weak parts in the bottom of the engine. It'll take it! :D

Besides... If I ryde by slowly, folks can see the beauty of the bike better! (And the Ugly of me too! :eek:)



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I look at it this way.

Zipping around Toronto following a SmartCar (oxymoron) I have more fun and get better mileage the the Smart. (friend of mine has one and we compared) was slow but my mileage was better, driving SLOW does get on my nerves but does save gas, I got 5.9 l/100km, he got 6.5.

Following the same guy in his wife's Porsche Boxster on the 401/407 highway, zipping around cars, a bit :D over the 100km, again, I had more fun and got better mileage then the Boxster, both our mileage were awful, RT was not as bad as the squashed Bug convertible.

So better mileage then both, and free parking ($20-$40 a day)in Toronto, I am happy.
 

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don't you love being bigger than a "smart" car?
 

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hahah

yeah but so funny when you pull up beside one
 

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Gas Mileage with the RTS

You have to drive below 60 or 5,000 RPM's and handle the throttle like it was an egg shell. Allow the trans to do the down shifting on the autoshift and maybe even bite the bullet and pay the king's ransom for the premium grade of fuel. After the engine is thoroughly broken in say maybe 7,000 miles at least with the quick 3,000 mile oil changes BuRP recommends seating the rings is delayed quite awhile. You then may see an increase in the MPG due to seating of the rings completely in the bores. If you are 250 and 6'2" like me it doesn't help either. If you travel with all kinds of weight on board it doesn't help either. The RT to begin with has about a 3 inch wider track than the RS and weighes about 240 pounds more too. None of this stuff helps and it gets worse drag figures as the speed and RPM's go up too.

Driving a mostly mountain road system topping out at about 50 MPH I have been now getting as much as 31 MPG from several tanks as of late. I can feel the engine pulling stronger under load so things must be finally getting happier in there and seated the way they should be finally at 7,000+ miles. This is why BuRP has a parasynthetic oil recommended for the trike till about 10,000 miles or so. Synthetic oils are so good they solve any friction and do not allow that necessary seating to take place in any engine during the initial miles on the engine. I do not agree with the 3,000 mile intervals of change with the Spyder as that tends to increase the time it takes to make the internals happy. It should be longer when you consider just the engine to hurry break-in a bit. But we are also oiling and serving the transmission so maybe that is why BuRP has the short 3,000 mile oil change interval.

As soon as I head out onto the interstate and run the 70+ MPH speed limits the MPG goes down to about 27 MPG or so. Indicating the weight, aerodynamic, and parasite drag this neat looking body puts on the economy of the trike. Just the weight of myself and all the crap I tend to carry more than likely doesn't help either. I run the trike at the following specs:

Tire pressures 18 front and 28 rear
preload springs set at 5, as high as they go
Rear air pressure shock set one down off all the way up
I run regular fuel and have seen no great increase with premium when I have run it.

Recently I discovered Startron Enxyme fuel treatment and have added that several tanks of fuel and got one tank running around the mountain roads that got an honest 34 MPG. I do not believe in snake oils or additives but the dealer said a bunch of guys have been running it to counteract the negative effects of the alcohol the Feds have been adding to our fuel. So I tried it and so far no negative effects other than the $20 the bottle of treatment cost me. It is supposed to treat 256 gallons of fuel so with only 6.5 gallons of fuel on board it should last awhile. Like I said I don't believe in this kind of stuff but I thought why not try it? Haven't tried it yet in the old tired Toyota truck but maybe this week I will, If it gets any better MPG with that old tired workhorse I will be impressed.

It frankly comes down to this statement in my eyes on MPG on an RT, drive slow and stay off the throttle and maybe you do get 30+ MPG. Drive it like it looks and MPG suffers, put the trailer on and it goes down to 25 MPG (I got 22 MPG loaded through the mountains) or less regardless of speed or terrain.

I didn't buy this thing to drive like the little old lady next store so I generally get about 28 MPG or so which is about equal to the 175,000 miles 2002 Toyota truck I drive everyday. You can tell me about your great mileage you are getting but I know regardless of what you say your driving style is how you are really driving. These things can not be that different to make the MPG that different than from my now second Spyder. I check every tank of fuel and keep track of it and know how I drove that tank out so figures don't lie only people do.

All in all even with the very poor MPG it still is a wonderful eye catching ride to enjoy when I can! Bill
August 20,2011
I have a 2011 RTS/SE5. I now have just over 1900 miles since June 15th. I fill my tank to just below the air vents in the filler tube each time. I am now getting 36 mpg on 92 octane. I had over 170 miles on my trip odometer and the fuel light still didn't come on. I am happy with the mileage and really happy how much fun it is to ride and I love all the spectators that come up to the Spyders. I also have my tires at 18/28 and 5 on the front shocks and 3-5 on the rear air shocks. By the way, I shift at about 3,200rpm and let up on the gas each time. It is smooth as silk.
Gordon
 

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The smaller touring windshield bumped my mileage up about 2MPG. Also made it handle much better in the wind and passing trucks.
 
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