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2012 Spyder RT Limited SE5 Bronze Lava Metallic.
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Why do the smallest parts have to be in the most inaccessible places!!
Has anyone tried to replace a Brake Light Switch lately? BLS failure was the code and my BUDS showed that it failed and needed to be replaced. Not a big deal, right? Well......

after review of my shop manual it shows to remove it, (after removing a host of body panels), by drilling the rivets!!! Installation is a reverse of the removal! 馃槀馃槀馃槀 Undrill the rivets I guess. 馃 Off to the hardware for some small bolts.

Now the part they DON鈥橳 tell you! The switch appears to be buried so far under the brake mechanisms that it looks like I need to remove the footrest support panel. Which of course supports the brake pedal and related linkages, is bolted to the frame and supports the master cylinder. (Second Allen screw on the MC not shown according to the shop manual).
I will be working to finish the work tomorrow. Wish me luck. I will update.
 

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2012 Spyder RT Limited SE5 Bronze Lava Metallic.
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15 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I hope you are absolutely, positively sure that the switch itself is bad.
Did you test it before digging into it's replacement ??
Many resets after getting the error code did not help. A few limp home sessions. I have BUDS with a mega tech license and all diagnostics point to a failed BLS. Changing it out is my last resort. Also gives me the opportunity to do some detail cleaning behind the panels.
 

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2012 Spyder RT Limited SE5 Bronze Lava Metallic.
Joined
15 Posts
Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Many resets after getting the error code did not help. A few limp home sessions. I have BUDS with a mega tech license and all diagnostics point to a failed BLS. Changing it out is my last resort. Also gives me the opportunity to do some detail cleaning behind the panels.
I hope you are absolutely, positively sure that the switch itself is bad.
Did you test it before digging into it's replacement ??
So, I am going to take your sage advice and ensure that the switch is the problem Before I get carried away with disassembly. Hooked the switch back up and lights are working. Hooked up my BUDS and cleared the error. After some detailed looking, it appears that I can get at the switch by removing the plate at the back (that the switch is riveted to) by just removing the bolts to the brake pedal and assembly. Can do all that from underneath the bike without removing the lower side panel that the floorboard is attached to. I am going to file that away for later. In the meantime, putting it all back together and we will see what happens.
 

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Changing it out is my last resort.
Computer codes don't always tell the whole story.......and sometimes they LIE.
If you can test the individual part by itself, you should DO that.
In this case, it should be a simple switch........and I wonder how the computer would KNOW if it wasn't working.
 

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2012 Spyder RT Limited SE5 Bronze Lava Metallic.
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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Computer codes don't always tell the whole story.......and sometimes they LIE.
If you can test the individual part by itself, you should DO that.
In this case, it should be a simple switch........and I wonder how the computer would KNOW if it wasn't working.
We so much rely on computers. This bike is the most 鈥榗omputerized鈥 I have owned. And BUDS can tell me a lot. Yet the error that came up on BUDS stated brake switch failure. So after a considerable amount of time researching how to get to it, I sprayed some WD and hope for the best. Brake lights come on each time. So it could end up being 鈥渏ust one of those things鈥. Will find out on the test ride tomorrow.

so on to changing out my fog lights. And....... now a letter to LA Monster to show them they sent me the wrong ones. 馃槚 I sometimes get the feeling ...... well, not going there.

Automotive tire Automotive lighting Spark plug Bumper Coil spring
 

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I sprayed some WD and hope for the best.
If that was original formula WD40, that was NOT a good choice.
Once the solvents dry out, it will leave a sticky GOO that will catch dust and almost guarantee another failure.
Now you need to flush the switch out with some alcohol or maybe brake cleaner and then blow it clean with air.

Spray silicone is much better for things like that.
 
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