according to our rep we're getting the first ones in the third week of october
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It's like my Father used to say:
1: I'd rather wait..... and it be right
2: With patience and persistence all things are possible
3: You get a lot more with sugar than salt
4: Worrying never makes it happen faster (planning does!)
OK, maybe they weren't all his
As a Manufacturing Program Manager who has coordinated several new product production launches..... I can say, "Even when planned to the last electron, stuff happens". Can-Am is being tight lipped on deliveries because they would rather not have to make people unhappy when a delivery date is not met..... don't set one, and you can't miss it
The way they answered the "Rate per day" question in the chat session was classic..... again, can't miss the rate if it is not released.....
Even with all the miles testing, the pilot builds for the demo units, and from what I can see in the picture of the well planned out assembly process (Spyder #1), there will be unexpected snafu's... a supplier does not deliver on time, something is dimensionally out of specification, the paint color from supplier a does not match that of supplier b and so-on and so-forth.
My other passion is the Dodge Viper (my other hobby site is http://www.theviperregistry.org). So I have watched the same thing happen in the manufacture of Vipers.. in two different plants through four generations of product launches. Can-Am is doing it right, I'm sure they wish they could let every buyer know the date of their Spyders delivery, and at some point, I'm sure that is how it will be done. But for a new product assembly launch, the reality is.... they just can't do that. I know the wait has to be killing you, but when you drive your Spyder off, it will all be worth it! Plus with Global warming, you'll be able to drive it until Christmas
It's like my Father used to say:
1: I'd rather wait..... and it be right
2: With patience and persistence all things are possible
3: You get a lot more with sugar than salt
4: Worrying never makes it happen faster (planning does!)
OK, maybe they weren't all his
As a Manufacturing Program Manager who has coordinated several new product production launches..... I can say, "Even when planned to the last electron, stuff happens". Can-Am is being tight lipped on deliveries because they would rather not have to make people unhappy when a delivery date is not met..... don't set one, and you can't miss it
The way they answered the "Rate per day" question in the chat session was classic..... again, can't miss the rate if it is not released.....
Even with all the miles testing, the pilot builds for the demo units, and from what I can see in the picture of the well planned out assembly process (Spyder #1), there will be unexpected snafu's... a supplier does not deliver on time, something is dimensionally out of specification, the paint color from supplier a does not match that of supplier b and so-on and so-forth.
My other passion is the Dodge Viper (my other hobby site is http://www.theviperregistry.org). So I have watched the same thing happen in the manufacture of Vipers.. in two different plants through four generations of product launches. Can-Am is doing it right, I'm sure they wish they could let every buyer know the date of their Spyders delivery, and at some point, I'm sure that is how it will be done. But for a new product assembly launch, the reality is.... they just can't do that. I know the wait has to be killing you, but when you drive your Spyder off, it will all be worth it! Plus with Global warming, you'll be able to drive it until Christmas
Engine Break-in
To play the corporate line
From the owners manual:
During the first 625 miles
- avoid full throttle acceleration
- avoid prolonged riding
- if cooling fan operates continually during stop and go traffic, pull over and shutoff the engine to let it cool off or speed up to let air cool off the engine
I had to smile when I read this, specially the first two......
Everything I have read about this engine is good.... it's tough, smooth, and virtually bullet proof.
Biggest thing is to not let it overheat, and to not run it at the same RPM for any extended period of time.
The reason any manufacturer recommends no full throttle acceleration during break-in has to do with metal to metal contact... it will happen until all the "high spots" are gone and lubrication gets into all the nooks and crannies. (definition=break-in), the risk is that more than the high spots will come off creating pits in surfaces if the "hydrodynamic film" breaks down, this is most likely in the high-velocity situations of full throttle conditions. (Did I mention my degree is in Mechanical Engineering?)
My day job is in a plant that make Scroll A/C compressors, we have break-in coating designed to hold lubrication during break-in, as the compressor breaks in, the coating "holds lubrication" and actually gets worn away on the high spots, leaving a "fitted surface".
Now, with all that said, I can tell you how I break-in a new or rebuilt engine...
Fresh Oil
Up on jack stands
Big Fan or fans in front of the radiator
Fire it up and for about an hour do the following:
about a minute or so at each:
idle, 2000, 3000, 4000, 3000, 2000, mellow run from idle to 4000 and back to idle
repeat until the hour is done.
All the while, watching the temp. If the fan is/are big enough, this should be no issue.
Engine builders all have their own variation of total time, times at each rpm and rpms, (usually done on a dyno under load by pro builders)... this would be where the disagreements usually are We need to see what times/numbers the Aprilia racing folks are doing for their rebuilds.
Of course, this can all be done on the road, better because under load, but you'll sure get a lot of funny looks, best done in the boonies
Once done, change the oil and filter, check for metal, if none, the engine is ready to go.
One point, sometime the initial oil fill has additives, so draining will remove these.... will need to check on this one.
This is just what I do, no guaranty or warranty implied or expressed (LOL)...
For what its worth, two of my current vehicles are over 200K right now without an engine rebuild.
By the way, I'm both ViperJay and Spyderman... one of these day's I'm going to get around to combining the two user names... hope this is not casing any confusion
To play the corporate line
From the owners manual:
During the first 625 miles
- avoid full throttle acceleration
- avoid prolonged riding
- if cooling fan operates continually during stop and go traffic, pull over and shutoff the engine to let it cool off or speed up to let air cool off the engine
I had to smile when I read this, specially the first two......
Everything I have read about this engine is good.... it's tough, smooth, and virtually bullet proof.
Biggest thing is to not let it overheat, and to not run it at the same RPM for any extended period of time.
The reason any manufacturer recommends no full throttle acceleration during break-in has to do with metal to metal contact... it will happen until all the "high spots" are gone and lubrication gets into all the nooks and crannies. (definition=break-in), the risk is that more than the high spots will come off creating pits in surfaces if the "hydrodynamic film" breaks down, this is most likely in the high-velocity situations of full throttle conditions. (Did I mention my degree is in Mechanical Engineering?)
My day job is in a plant that make Scroll A/C compressors, we have break-in coating designed to hold lubrication during break-in, as the compressor breaks in, the coating "holds lubrication" and actually gets worn away on the high spots, leaving a "fitted surface".
Now, with all that said, I can tell you how I break-in a new or rebuilt engine...
Fresh Oil
Up on jack stands
Big Fan or fans in front of the radiator
Fire it up and for about an hour do the following:
about a minute or so at each:
idle, 2000, 3000, 4000, 3000, 2000, mellow run from idle to 4000 and back to idle
repeat until the hour is done.
All the while, watching the temp. If the fan is/are big enough, this should be no issue.
Engine builders all have their own variation of total time, times at each rpm and rpms, (usually done on a dyno under load by pro builders)... this would be where the disagreements usually are
We need to see what times/numbers the Aprilia racing folks are doing for their rebuilds.Of course, this can all be done on the road, better because under load, but you'll sure get a lot of funny looks, best done in the boonies
Once done, change the oil and filter, check for metal, if none, the engine is ready to go.
One point, sometime the initial oil fill has additives, so draining will remove these.... will need to check on this one.
This is just what I do, no guaranty or warranty implied or expressed (LOL)...
For what its worth, two of my current vehicles are over 200K right now without an engine rebuild.
By the way, I'm both ViperJay and Spyderman... one of these day's I'm going to get around to combining the two user names... hope this is not casing any confusion
I'll have to read it a few times....
I'll have to read it a few more times, on the surface his basic premise is correct, it takes combustion pressure and piston speed to properly seat piston rings... but remember, that is not the only thing your are breaking in.... Also I'm not so sure about the wisdom of full throttle run on any new engine as it is not a good plan for new "plain" bearings as the peak force at each end of the pistons stroke "could" cause film loss on rod and crank bearings and you could easily do not so good things to the the new valves....
I'm going to talk to my "oil expert" friend on not using synthetic initially. On the surface it makes sense as the whole idea is to seat the rings, and that quite frankly takes friction/heat.... which synthetic is good at preventing/carrying away I run synthetic in everything I own. But from day one only the Viper came from the factory with it as the fill, so technically, all the others started with conventional oil. The Viper simply does not get enough miles to know if the synthetic from birth is good or bad.
In the Spyder manual they DO say to change the oil and filter after the 625 mi break-in, they also have the dealer check the valve clearances.
They make kits so snowmobiles can be run in the summer, a studded rear tire and front ski retrofit, and your Spyder might handle the snow
I'll have to read it a few more times, on the surface his basic premise is correct, it takes combustion pressure and piston speed to properly seat piston rings... but remember, that is not the only thing your are breaking in.... Also I'm not so sure about the wisdom of full throttle run on any new engine as it is not a good plan for new "plain" bearings as the peak force at each end of the pistons stroke "could" cause film loss on rod and crank bearings and you could easily do not so good things to the the new valves....
I'm going to talk to my "oil expert" friend on not using synthetic initially. On the surface it makes sense as the whole idea is to seat the rings, and that quite frankly takes friction/heat.... which synthetic is good at preventing/carrying away
I run synthetic in everything I own. But from day one only the Viper came from the factory with it as the fill, so technically, all the others started with conventional oil. The Viper simply does not get enough miles to know if the synthetic from birth is good or bad.In the Spyder manual they DO say to change the oil and filter after the 625 mi break-in, they also have the dealer check the valve clearances.
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