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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Ordered $1000 worth of LEDs and components for my '09 SE5. I did not like the way Custom Dynamics has you mount up the Day Runners LED light bars with molding tape under the A arm. I checked an online source for OEM parts and looked up the cost of the A arm plastic deflector covers. At $12 each, I decided a project was worth the risk. My light bars are integral to the plastic deflector covers. Took about 90 min to complete. Here's how.

Step 1(left pic) - Remove the cover. Put a piece of painter's blue tape on the front edge. I set my pen on top of a 1/4" thick metal and drew a line through the middle of the cover edge. Matches the molding process flash line at the apex of the leading edge.

Step 2 - Measure in 10mm from the spindle end of the cover and mark a line for the first LED. Place the LED bar against the deflector with the cable placed to the inside end of the cover for LED separation accuracy. Mark the center of the remaining LEDs on the line.

Step 3 - I used a new/very sharp 1/8" drill bit in a Dremel tool to pre-drill all 24 holes in each cover. Dremel is easier to control than a hand drill, quick and easy. You can also use a drill press and the right size bench vise if available.

Step 4 & 5 -Use a new/very sharp 1/4" drill bit to open up all 24 holes. 1/4" bit gives you about .025-.030" hole clearance through which the LEDs will insert. Remove the masking tape. If the bit is sharp, the holes will be clean. If dull, you will need to trim out any plastic remaining in the holes.

Step 6 -(next Reply post) Insert the LEDs through the holes in the cover from the inside. The LEDs are molded in a soft clear Vinyl, so they can be gently adjusted into the holes. Start at either end, one LED at a time. The bar will slip nicely into place where the webbing in the plastic will help support the bar. When you attach the cover onto the A arm, the round metal bar will back up and hold the LED bar in place. No molding tape required. The picture is looking straight up at the bar from underneath and how I secured the extra cabling around the mounting posts. The red line is Custom D's molding tape backing.

Results 1 & 2 - (next Reply post) Shows the improved appearance rather than taping the LED bar to the bottom of the A arm.

Spyder-sense is tingling on this one!
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 · (Edited)
LED light bar results

Continued

Pictures show the final results. Much cleaner install than Custom Dynamics method. Well worth the $12 risk if I drilled the holes funky.

The rest of the Custom Dynamics LEDs on the bike look awesome.

Spyder-sense
 

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I enjoy folks doing improvement like this. It looks really awesome! Thanks for all the dimensional and how-to info!

One trick I learned from woodworking was how much a guide helps when trying to drill a row of holes, I usually just attached a board to my drill press base with clamps. It works wonders. Of course if I had a more expensive drill press it would have an adjustable guide built in.... but hey, what can you expect from Harbor Freight LOL. I am impressed with how straight yours are by doing it freehand.... not many of us have that steady a hand, even with the hole positions so well marked.

Out of curiosity, what would you think of us adding a forum to place improvement instructions, maintenance tips, and similar posts?
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
This was my first post here. Your idea sounds like a good one. I have minimal experience with forums. The only other forum I watch is for Ford F150 Raptors. I love my Spyder almost as much as I love my truck.

As far as the straightness of the holes, the Dremel and a brand new 1/8" bit was the ticket. 1/4" bit was an easy chase. Any other material but plastic and a center punch would be a must

Is the administrator out there reading these threads?

Spyder-sense
 
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