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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I am new to the Spyders ( well Motorcycles period ) ..

So, as I read about the SPAL Kit and Engine Temperatures, I found myself asking the question, Since I have raced on tracks in High temperatures and I am located in the High Desert where our Outside temps hit 110+.

" Water wetter works on my Aluminum Block cars to bring down my Coolant Temp 20 (+/- 5 ) Degrees w/ faster cooling. I wonder if this would work on this V-Twin Motor? "

So, has anyone tried this or heard of this? For Summer use only, of course.

Any Ideas or Suggestions, Besides Modifying the OEM Fan setup?

Thanks!
Marc
 

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D&D, don't see how it could hurt anything. I noticed mine getting in the upper side of the white today when temps were in high 90's. Normally it stays about midway.

PS: FWIW, I once had a 2 cycle water cooled Rotax 65 hp on an ultralite plane and it was running hot. Tried some high priced brand of majic cooler and it didn't help at all. Some old fellow emailed, said he didnt know a thing about my motor, but he did know that if you reduced the anti-freeze to about 10% it would run cooler. I did, and it did. Told several others who also had success with that. Of course, come winter we put it back up to 50-50. Perhaps thiw would work on the Can Am Rotax as well.
 

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I am going to give it a shot this weekend.
 

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Drift N Dragg let us know if it works I seem to be running hotter than I like but it's my first summer with this bike and it has been a hot one here in the south.
 

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I agree with ulflyer on diluting the antifreeze. Antifreeze is used to prevent the coolant in the engine and radiator from freezing, hence its name being antifreeze. Antifreeze is known to be less efficient than straight water at cooling an engine. Based on the expected low temperatures you should determine the ratio of antifreeze to water. My Prestone bottle says that a 50/50 ratio provides protection down to -34 degrees, a 70/30 (Prestone/Water) ratio provides protection down to -84 degrees.

So the mixture of antifreeze needs to be based on your requirements for preventing freezing of the engine. If you don't mind changing the coolant based on the season, you can completely replace the antifreeze during the summer months with products like WaterWetter and use antifreeze only when there is risk of freezing the coolant.

Typically a 50/50 ratio will provide cooling and freezing protection for most applications with cars. Motorcycles tend to run hotter and you must adjust according to the conditions. Personally I live in Phoenix Arizona. Yesterday at lunch the temperature on the road showed 120 degrees. As long as I was moving above 40MPH the temperature stayed just above 1/2 on the gauge. At stoplights it would climb some. I would not leave my Spyder idling for long periods of time when it is crazy hot like that.

Living in Phoenix, I can probably cut my ratio down to 30/70 (antifreeze/water) and still have freeze protection as well as the lubricating protection for the coolant system. Until I see the temperature getting into the red zone, I'll leave well enough alone. But I will also avoid stop and go traffic on hot days knowing that I will probably overheat in heavy traffic.
 

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Is there any relatively easy way to drain the radiator? The tank that is used to check and top off only holds a small amount, perhaps a quart or less; I'd thought to syphon it dry and refill but that seems too little. For that matter, how much does the radiator hold? Is there a drain on the bottom of the radiator itself?

I've done a cursory look and haven't found a way yet. I'd really like to reduce the amount of antifreeze in it.
 

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I looked in the owners manual but it only tells how to top off the overflow tank. Guess it is time to buy the service manual. They are available on ebay for about $25.
 

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Tried to syphon the holding tank but it has baffles inside which prevents getting tube down inside! Oh well. If you get the manual let me know how to drain the radiator.
 

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If I can get ambitious enuf to jack it up and take a look at the type clamps used, I might give it a try. Trouble is, it would all gush out, I think.

EDITED TO ADD: Hose clamp is the crimp-on variety so theres no way to merely loosen it to let some of the antifreeze out. It would have to be replaced so the hose end would need to come off completely in order to reinstall the new clamp. SHOOT!

Question on checking oil. I know theres been a lot of talk about this, and i've read the manual, but it seems to me that it measures the same whether its cold, or hot and run for 30 sec. What are you experiencing?

When I'm satisified with this and know its full I'm going to file a notch in the dipstick that indicates "full" with the stick not screwed in. Seems dumb to me to have to screw the thing in. Couldn't they have made it longer or marked it without it being screwed in? Guess I'm just too picky! lol
 
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