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I considered the same, although I've only found Mobile 1 in 10W40, not 5W40.
Since the machine is still under warrantee, I decided to go with the BRP oil, and discovered that it is not a full synthetic, but a blend. BRP states emphatically that an oil meeting the API service SM or ILSAC GF-4 classifications will cause clutch slippage.

I had a discussion with the shop owner, who (unofficially) suggested that the Castrol 5W40 motorcycle oil should be a good alternative to the BRP oil. The Castol is full synthetic. The BRP "factory" oil does not indicate grade or service on the containers.

I intend to contact Castrol and see if they concur with using their "motorcycle" oil in a Spyder. Considering that a synthetic blend oil is typically about half the price of a full synthetic, the BRP oil seems a little pricey to me.

However, considering the complexity and expense of a Spyder, it doesn't make sense to go cheap on oil.

pmdave:confused:
 

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If you look at Page 121 of your Spyder manual, it says you can use BRP oil or equivalent synthetic oil. I use Castrol Power RS R4 4T ($12.99) in mine but am thinking of switching to Spectro Platinum ($11.99)
 

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If you look at Page 121 of your Spyder manual, it says you can use BRP oil or equivalent synthetic oil. I use Castrol Power RS R4 4T ($12.99) in mine but am thinking of switching to Spectro Platinum ($11.99)
The Spyders Engine "is" a motorcycle Engine, the Rotax 990 is used in Aprilia motorcycles with the Spyder getting a reverse gear instead of sixth. With that said, any quality synthetic cycle oil of the correct viscosity/API rating should be fine in the Spyder as Irish mentions above.

Here is a nice FAQ on Cycle Oils on the Mobil 1 site:

Mobil One Cycle Oil FAQS

Amsoil is one I usually use, most Honda dealers carry it, or you can mail order it:

Amsoil Motorcycle oils

One thing, when you go full synthetic, you may need to readjust your idle as your it will go up. It really IS that much more slippery.
 

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Mobile 1 15-50w recommended high temp

Rotax service bulletins recommend Mobile 1 15-50 for operating oil temps above 120 C or 248 F. Mobile 1 was extensively tested by the FAA in 912 and 914 Rotax engines and is the only oil recommended by the FAA for extended oil changes. Running Mobile 1 15-50 in our Spyder SE5 RS and it runs cooler and shifts smoother.
 

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Shell Oil

I have used Shell Rotella® T6 5W-40 (Full Synthetic) in my Honda ST1300 since I have owed it. The ST Forum gives a lot of support to the Rotella.

Can be purchased at WalMart not sure of current price because I purchased a few gallons a few years ago. It may sell for about $20 to $25 per gallon.

Any thoughts?
 

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Rotax service bulletins recommend Mobile 1 15-50 for operating oil temps above 120 C or 248 F. Mobile 1 was extensively tested by the FAA in 912 and 914 Rotax engines and is the only oil recommended by the FAA for extended oil changes. Running Mobile 1 15-50 in our Spyder SE5 RS and it runs cooler and shifts smoother.
Is this the same thing as the Mobile 1 Racing 4T motorcycle oil? This oil now has the SM rating is not recommended to be used in the Spyder. Too slick and has burnt up a few cluthces.
 

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Rotax service bulletins recommend Mobile 1 15-50 for operating oil temps above 120 C or 248 F. Mobile 1 was extensively tested by the FAA in 912 and 914 Rotax engines and is the only oil recommended by the FAA for extended oil changes. Running Mobile 1 15-50 in our Spyder SE5 RS and it runs cooler and shifts smoother.
I was looking at the Mobil 1 site and did not see a 15W-50 motorcycle oil?

Only saw this at Mobil 1 Motorcycle Oils:

"... Excellent transmission performance (in 10W-40/20W-50 grades)..."



Did I miss something?

Thanks in advance.
 

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Has anyone used Mobil 1 Synthetic motor oil in their Spyder? I have to change my oil and found the oil at VIP. Don't want to use it and find out I created a problem.

Thanks,[/QUOTE

Motorcycle Oils vs. Automotive Oils

This is something that has stumped me for years. Intuitively I can't imagine that much of a difference between MC oil and cage oil. The above link proves that to be true. It has been a huge marketing scam which is a simple message endlessly repeated to make it believed. I have used syns in my bikes for years not dino, without a bit of trouble. My only nagging fear was that maybe in the long run I was hurting it. My fears are put to rest and I see no reason why the Spyder should be any different.
 

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Sorry Casper. You and the article you are referencing are not accurate. The problem is with todays oils for autos includes things like Moly which can destroy wet clutches. For Spyders, and most motorcycles in general, they have wet clutches and you must use an oil that has been approved for wet clutch applications. Your bottle of oil better have a JASO MA or better rating on it or you arte going to damage your clutch as slippage will occur . No automotive oil has this rating. There are a few diesel oil that do, like Rotella.
 

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Sorry Casper. You and the article you are referencing are not accurate. The problem is with todays oils for autos includes things like Moly which can destroy wet clutches. For Spyders, and most motorcycles in general, they have wet clutches and you must use an oil that has been approved for wet clutch applications. Your bottle of oil better have a JASO MA or better rating on it or you arte going to damage your clutch as slippage will occur . No automotive oil has this rating. There are a few diesel oil that do, like Rotella.
True to only a certain extent max. if it says energy conservation on it it is an oil with friction reducing additives and NOTTO be used. If not then they are fine. And most oils OTHERTHAN MC oils while meeting JASO are not submitted for testing. Therefore no rating.
 

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So, fwiw, I asked my dealer service rep his thoughts. He believes in MC oil yet conceded that auto oil w/o anti friction would probably be fine. I have absolutely no problem being wrong as long as I can get to the truth of the matter which seems to be very difficult. Having said that he prefers shell rotella Mc oil as the best overall and amzoil there too but am seems to have a cult whereas shell is mainstream. He uses the dhell in his bikes and has never seen any issues in other bikes using it either. So hence forth i' ll be using the shell t6 I believe and as far as I'm concerned that or the mobil 1 for Mc will be my choice. He did feel that mc oils may be a bit different and for a 30k machine felt it worthwhile. His view on the brp oil was fine since they spec'd it' but given full syn over hybrid was a non issue. I just really want to get at the truth of things as much as ascertainable.

That's why I refuse to run car tires on an mc at all. I spoke with a tire engineer and he went into great detail as to why not. Good enough for me. When I push a bike too far I have zero interest in finding out the sidewall collapsed.

In the end I do hope this helped someone. It did me.
 

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Seems neverending...

I've been using Mobil 1 Racing 4T, 10W-40 in my 2010 RT/SE5. I based my selection on availability and specific language on the oil although it is has a JASCO SM...here's the Mobil quote: "Helps to extend the life of the engine, transmissions, and wet clutch primaries."

So, help me out guys. Opinions on going to another oil or is BRP's saying SM is bad out the window on this one?
 

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BRP for warranty?

I've been using Mobil 1 Racing 4T, 10W-40 in my 2010 RT/SE5. I based my selection on availability and specific language on the oil although it is has a JASCO SM...here's the Mobil quote: "Helps to extend the life of the engine, transmissions, and wet clutch primaries."

So, help me out guys. Opinions on going to another oil or is BRP's saying SM is bad out the window on this one?
Since I'm just about at my first full service for the 2014 RT I'm waiting to see the response you get. I'm not one to jump in with the crowd, I've always liked the AMSOIL products but looking at all the different posts and "PROOF" it looks as if it's just better overall to use the BRP stuff. At least it provides a basis for any warranty argument.

Sgt Steve
 
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