how did ya fix it



how did ya fix it I got same bike ?? just wondering

 

Have the same year and the same problem. I backed it up in my drive, put it in neutral and park. Left it there for an hour or so, went out to pull it into the garage and the parking break wouldn't release. Came looking for a solution and found this.

I then called the shop because it was getting close to closing. No solution given. Only that they're sending two guys out tomorrow at 11. Not sure if that's to take it to the shop or fix it.

 

Still looking for an answer to what happened or anyone else that experienced this. Apparently it's pretty rare, whatever the cause, to be determined.

After calling the shop yesterday, they sent a fellow out this morning. He hadn't experienced this failure before and spent two hours taking off tupperware and looking for a solution. You could hear the relay when the parking brake button was pushed, but nothing happened.

He didn't see a way to release the brake from the rear wheel so he loosened a bolt on a geared wheel inside the body which eventually freed the parking brake. I assume there is some type motor that gets activated to the mechanism that sets and releases the parking brake, but I'm guessing.

Once off, he was able to ride it to the truck and load it up. I'm really anxious to find out what went wrong and if there's any easier way to disconnect the parking brake. I'd hate for that to happen 100s of miles from home.

I also wondered when I first saw it why they needed to make the PB electronic. Maybe a bit too much engineering.

 

Brake

I had the same thing happen to me while an a wknd trip, but mine was a 13 RTS. Fortunately it was a Fri. afternoon and my dealer was still open.
They advised me to loosen the cable nuts at the caliper. Once the brake was free I could continue to ride it till I was able to get it to my dealer. I just had to chock a wheel every time I stopped. Glad I was riding with friends.
My dealer it was a broken link between the PB motor and the cable.

Another solution I found that wknd was to take the allen wrench from the tool kit, depress the brake pedal and slide the through the hole in the pedal arm below the floor board. Not letting the pedal to come back up.
Downside....The brake lights on the back stay on.

I hope this helps.

 

I had the same thing happen to me while an a wknd trip, but mine was a 13 RTS. Fortunately it was a Fri. afternoon and my dealer was still open.
They advised me to loosen the cable nuts at the caliper. Once the brake was free I could continue to ride it till I was able to get it to my dealer. I just had to chock a wheel every time I stopped. Glad I was riding with friends.
My dealer it was a broken link between the PB motor and the cable.

Another solution I found that wknd was to take the allen wrench from the tool kit, depress the brake pedal and slide the through the hole in the pedal arm below the floor board. Not letting the pedal to come back up.
Downside....The brake lights on the back stay on.

I hope this helps.

Was your '13 an electronic/mechanical brake or did it have a parking brake pedal? What they suggested was what I thought would work, but the mechanic didn't seem to like the suggestion.

 

13 RTS, electric switch in the same place a my 15 RTS.
I could hear the electric motor actuating when I toggled the switch

 

Thanks Ray, the exact same situation (I think). To me, it sounded like a relay that I heard. What ultimately was the problem (mechanical or electrical, I left that out in the original post)?

I figured there was a way of disabling the PB at the rear wheel but I didn't want any warranty issues so I let it up to their mechanics.

 

Just to finalize this, it was a bit disheartening. Nothing broke either electrical or mechanical. They cleaned some parts and connectors and it worked so they said. I didn't even get a straight answer on how to disable the parking brake from the rear brake assembly, but I found this video after you mentioned loosening the nuts on the back brake-

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qnIgEZ1pgRw

If it happens again, that's where I'll head. Loosen up the PB, Insure it's drive able, adjust the brake as it shows in the video. If no further issue, I save a lot of time. If there is an issue, just disable it and let them find the problem.

 

Stuck electric brake Spyder RT


Had stuck electric brake problem on our 2012 Spyder RT. Mechanics said it was a dirty electrical micro-switch under right side panel, below the steering wheel.

 

Had stuck electric brake problem on our 2012 Spyder RT. Mechanics said it was a dirty electrical micro-switch under right side panel, below the steering wheel.

I feel for you. I was lucky as when mine failed, my Spyder was in my driveway. I understand why they integrated the parking brake into their electronic shifting design since the brake needs to be on to insure the machine doesn't run away when you park, but being stranded is disconcerting.

I got the same answer when I called as far as it being something they don't see happen and the lack of posts on the subject might add credence to that possibility. However, there should be a straightforward approach to getting out of a bad situation when things go bad.

I personally have decided to carry a 12mm and 16mm wrench in my bike, just in case. The mechanic didn't help me when I suggested loosening the brake at the rear wheel when he was taking all the tupperware off in the two hours he took to get the brake off. It was under warranty, but what if it wasn't?

I'm curious as to how they got the brake off to load it if you were there when they did so. It could be important in the event it happens again. It's been a little over a week since it happened to me and I can assure you, every time I sit on my bike now, I'm looking for that light to go off (or stay on) when I push the PB button.

I believe I posted this video in an earlier post (or one like it), but I'd loosen up that first 12mm nut first to see if I could get the brake off. If that didn't work, I'd take the entire PB mechanism off with the 16mm and totally disable the brake if need be.

 

Seems systemic

Same problem this week-end with a 2015 Spyder RT Limited. This was the second time. The first time it would drive. Took it to the dealer and when the service rep came out to check it, it worked fine. This time we were out of town and had to contact roadside assist. Advised they would only cover 2/3ds of the cost. Had it transported to the dealer and when it arrived the service manager said it worked fine. He's ordered a new switch. He also said this has not happened before, according to Can Am. This is not a good deal. Am thinking of trying not to use the brake, just keep it in gear. Any advice?

 

yes 2017 limited and dealer said never heard my battery must be low bought new battery no change. I find it hard to belive there is nooveride for problem. Very very poor mangement of a painfully irritating fun sucking problem. my third model spyder. extremely disspointed!

 

Old thread and I only just stumbled on it today and remembered this happening way back when I originally had the issue in my driveway, when I had the original issue. Well it happened again last year when I wasn't at home and do longer under warannty. Fortunately I was in a parking spot and was able to find a Youbube on how to release the brake on the right side of the rear wheel. It took a few tools but was able to ride it home and get it to the shop the next day. It was a bit hairy as you can't stop and turn off the engine with any incline at all unless you have someone with you to keep the bike from rolling or can keep uour foot on the break and get off, somehow blocking the wheel while olding the bike.

They took the bike in and couldn't find the issue and gave me two options- replace the switch or the motor. If that is your option and you want to minimize an expensive repair, do both. I opted for the switch and got it back. I figured they tested it but decided to make sure in a safe environment. I drove it around their lot, stopped on level ground, turned it off, turned it back on and repeated. I think I tested it three times. I'm happy.

The shop is about 20 miles from my house and I drove around a bit, happy to have the Spyder back, then headed home. The gas level was real low taking it to the shop but they must have added some after they worked on it. I decided to stop and fill it up before heading home. Filled it up and it was locked up again!

Fortunately it was a station with 8 bays and they had no problem with it sitting there until I got home, grabbed the tools and went back. I took the parking break apart again and my girlfriend and I headed back to the shop to get the motor replaced. $1200 later, I've been good to go.

If it happens again, I hope there's a Youtube that covers replacing bot the switch and motor and do it myself.

 

I have on a 2015. My fix was to shut off the trike and it beeped for 30 seconds and restart. Your problem may be different in some way as my fix has worked 7 times in the year I have had the trike.