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I'm looking at buying a 2014 RT with 17k miles on it. My fella is a longtime Harley rider and a great mechanic. My understanding is that the CanAms are a bit more expensive to own due to maintenance costs. What are your experiences?
 

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The routine maintenance costs at a dealership are about the same as what you pay a Harley dealer.
No reason that y'all can't do your own routine maintenance.

How many failures you actually have where you need OEM parts to fix is just a matter of luck.
There are a few things where their computer system is required.

Compared to the cost of maintaining a Harley, I think you should not be shocked.
 

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Bought our 2014 RT LE in March with 9100 Km on the clock. Low Kms/miles is attractive, but not always the best. One oil change in 7 years is not doing the engine any favours. Agree with Easy Rider. Easy to maintain, would recommend getting the 2013 service manual and the 2014 service manual supplement if you buy the Spyder. Lots of good YouTube videos to assist in getting initial maintenance done such as fluid changes, filters, brakes, and such. Once these are done, not a lot to do but to keep the basic maintenance current. The only issue(s) you may have would be electronics where you would have to go to a dealer to get the issue corrected. The Spyder is heavy on the electronic side, same as most new motorcycles. You can buy the B.U.D.S. software and do additional maintenance/work if required, and so inclined. The software will allow you to tackle additional issues. Cost of ownership depends on a variety of issues. The more we want/require in our vehicles, the more complex and costly ownership can become. Personally, the cost to get our 2014 Spyder RT LE up to a standard I wanted is no different than any of the Goldwing(s) I own/or owned. Same requirements.

Go for the 2014 Spyder RT, you'll enjoy it.
 

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Concur with Rednaxs60. The 1330cc engine (2014 and later) versions are not hard to maintain -- they just require removing an amazing amount of body work for access. And Yes Can-Am parts are expensive but in the same range as H-D parts. If the purchase price is acceptable, buy it and you will enjoy the motor and the comfort.

With that age and mileage, you probably have the original tires. Replace them with car tires and at least newer versions. Replace the fuel filter when you do the oil change. If it's an SE6 replace the HCM filter as well as the oil filter. The Can-Am is electronics-intensive so replace the battery to avoid low voltage glitches (I bought a Shorai LFX). Replace the coolant. Replace the brake fluid (Speedbleeders really help). And make sure the air suspension is working properly. If it isn't expect to spend some quality time troubleshooting and correcting.

Must-Have Farkles: Lamonster Magic Mirrors for easy removal of mirrors (first step of any maintenance action). LED rear turn signals (I suggest AUXITO 7507 2800LM). And while you're there LED backup lights. You will need a variety of Torx drivers (I replaced the Torx screws with much easier to drive stainless steel flanged hex head screws -- Amazon almost had me on a monthly subscription).

Send pictures.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Thanks everyone! I bought it yesterday - got a GREAT deal and she's a beauty! Appreciate all of the maintenance tips.
 

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I'm looking at buying a 2014 RT with 17k miles on it. My fella is a longtime Harley rider and a great mechanic. My understanding is that the CanAms are a bit more expensive to own due to maintenance costs. What are your experiences?
Having just sold a Harley ultra limited and bought a 2014 Spyder with 8900 hundred miles and now having to spend $1800 on a new Vehicle Control Module. Let's just say I'm less than impressed.
 

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If you could explain how (and why if you know) this happened, it might be useful for some others.

I do NOT believe that is a common failure.
I have no Idea how this happened. I went to take it for a ride Limp mode was on, speedo and trip odometer didn't work, no parking brake, no power at the 12v outlet in the trunk, and it would not down shift automaticlly.
 

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I have no Idea how this happened. I went to take it for a ride Limp mode was on, speedo and trip odometer didn't work, no parking brake, no power at the 12v outlet in the trunk, and it would not down shift automaticlly.
So.....who determined that the Vehicle Control Module is bad ?
If it was a shop, I hope you told them that you aren't paying for parts that do NOT fix the problem.
 

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Had a similar issue with a 2018 F3 Limited, had to boost the Spyder, battery was on a battery tender, but for some reason the engine would not start. Let the Spyder idle for a while to give the battery some juice, started off and the Spyder immediately went into the limp home mode, did this several times. Put in a fresh, new battery and all issues went away.

Load tested the battery and it was on the edge of being useable.

Did you have a load test done, and have an internal health of the battery check done as well. A load test will indicate if the battery is good, and recovers well, but an internal health check will indicate if any of the cells are staring to degrade. If one or more cells are starting to degrade, the battery will not support the power requirements of the Spyder.

These Spyders are power hungry vehicles and require a good battery to operate well. I'd have the battery checked and/or just put in a new one.

If the dealer has done a diagnostic check of your Spyder with a print out, there should be a battery check indicated. Look at the numbers and if the battery test shows voltage going below 11.5 VDC, battery change would be my first consideration. Inexpensive to replace compared to. If this does not fix the issue, new battery is always good.

Good luck.
 

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Richard -- you have already spent more time, money and heartache to perform the remedial maintenance we recommended for Regina.

Be that as it may, replace the battery.

Don't bother checking it. Waste of time and effort.

Instead of the Yausa SLA, I recommend the Shorai LFX36L3-BS12. Much easier to install. Be sure to bend the two tangs on the hold-down plate upwards to avoid the possibility of a short.
 

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So.....who determined that the Vehicle Control Module is bad ?
If it was a shop, I hope you told them that you aren't paying for parts that do NOT fix the problem.
I did tell them I was not throwing parts at it. I asked if they were shore that the vcm was the problem. They said yes.
 

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Richard -- you have already spent more time, money and heartache to perform the remedial maintenance we recommended for Regina.

Be that as it may, replace the battery.

Don't bother checking it. Waste of time and effort.

Instead of the Yausa SLA, I recommend the Shorai LFX36L3-BS12. Much easier to install. Be sure to bend the two tangs on the hold-down plate upwards to avoid the possibility of a short.
The battery was tested at a NAPA store that I trust. But I will tell the dealer to try it with a new battery.Thanks. Th battery was the first thing that popped into my mind.
Richard -- you have already spent more time, money and heartache to perform the remedial maintenance we recommended for Regina.

Be that as it may, replace the battery.

Don't bother checking it. Waste of time and effort.

Instead of the Yausa SLA, I recommend the Shorai LFX36L3-BS12. Much easier to install. Be sure to bend the two tangs on the hold-down plate upwards to avoid the possibility of a short.
Regina?
 

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Richard -- best wishes the new battery returns your Spyder to full service.

You may be interested to know the 1330cc engines have a powerful 1KW alternator for high surge current loads: the VCM pump has a 40amp fuse; the VCM valves have a 25amp fuse; and the Dynamic Power Steering has a 40amp fuse.

From the service manual: The Vehicle Control Module (VCM) is the heart of the vehicle stability system (VSS). It contains 2 microprocessors, 2 hydraulic pumps, several solenoids and passageways to the 3 brake calipers. The VCM receives inputs from several sensors and performs calculations to cycle the pump and solenoids to apply or relieve hydraulic pressure to or from the vehicle brake calipers. In addition the VCM has the ability to send a signal to the ECM to reduce engine torque if necessary.

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It's unusual for the VCM to fail. If unfortunately your's has would you please share some of the circumstances leading to this failure. Best wishes.
 

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Richard -- best wishes the new battery returns your Spyder to full service.

You may be interested to know the 1330cc engines have a powerful 1KW alternator for high surge current loads: the VCM pump has a 40amp fuse; the VCM valves have a 25amp fuse; and the Dynamic Power Steering has a 40amp fuse.

From the service manual: The Vehicle Control Module (VCM) is the heart of the vehicle stability system (VSS). It contains 2 microprocessors, 2 hydraulic pumps, several solenoids and passageways to the 3 brake calipers. The VCM receives inputs from several sensors and performs calculations to cycle the pump and solenoids to apply or relieve hydraulic pressure to or from the vehicle brake calipers. In addition the VCM has the ability to send a signal to the ECM to reduce engine torque if necessary.

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It's unusual for the VCM to fail. If unfortunately your's has would you please share some of the circumstances leading to this failure. Best wishes.
Thank you. I will keep you updated on the outcome.
 

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Richard -- best wishes the new battery returns your Spyder to full service.

You may be interested to know the 1330cc engines have a powerful 1KW alternator for high surge current loads: the VCM pump has a 40amp fuse; the VCM valves have a 25amp fuse; and the Dynamic Power Steering has a 40amp fuse.

From the service manual: The Vehicle Control Module (VCM) is the heart of the vehicle stability system (VSS). It contains 2 microprocessors, 2 hydraulic pumps, several solenoids and passageways to the 3 brake calipers. The VCM receives inputs from several sensors and performs calculations to cycle the pump and solenoids to apply or relieve hydraulic pressure to or from the vehicle brake calipers. In addition the VCM has the ability to send a signal to the ECM to reduce engine torque if necessary.

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It's unusual for the VCM to fail. If unfortunately your's has would you please share some of the circumstances leading to this failure. Best wishes.
Below you will see the estimate for the ECM repair on my 2014 Spyder:

Unit Job Job Total 2014 CAN-AM SPYDER RT6 LMTD DIAG ELECTRICAL ISSUES $125.00 2014 CAN-AM SPYDER RT6 LMTD REPLACE VCM $1,894.99
Job Subtotal: $2,019.99
Job Parts Subtotal: $1,019.99
Job Labor Subtotal: $1,000.00
Tax: $61.20
Total: $2,081.19
Less Deposits: $0.00
Total Due: $2,081.19
SCANNED SYSTEM, FOUND CODES:
P0556 - BRAKE PRESSURE ON CAN NOT VALID
P062C - VEHICLE SPEED
U0122 - TCM, WPM LOST COMMUNICATION WITH VCM
INSPECTED WIRING TO STEERING CONTROL AND FOUND NO OBVIOUS DAMAGE
MEASURED PROPER RESISTANCE ON CONNECTIONS
RECOMMEND REPLACE VCM MODULE
TESTED 12V POWER OUTLET IN TRUNK AND FOUND IT FULLY OPERATIONAL AT THIS TIME
 

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Those are all CANbus related problems. Much of the Spyder electronics communicate via CANbus. Most of the buttons on the left-hand and right-hand grips communicate via CANbus not individual wires. So that's where you gotta look.

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Your concern with throwing parts at the diagnostic codes is justified.

Unless your Spyder received a lightning strike or other EMP event, I'm thinking the internal electronics are good and the wiring and connectors are damaged.

So you have a 2014 with 8900 miles (mine had 77K in SoCal/AZ). So what was it doing for 7 years? Parked in Lake Michigan? At this point my inclination would be to bring it home and put it up on three car ramps so you can crawl underneath (backing up reversed ramps provides more access). Then buy a service manual (CD because it has the readable wiring diagram), some Torx drivers, a small powerful LED flashlight to see into dark corners, some electronics contact cleaner (NOT brake cleaner), and some DeoxIT. Start with the fuses and relays, then test operation, then the connectors under the body work.

I know they checked the resistance but at $2K it's worthwhile for you to double check.
 

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