Buying my first Spyder RT... some advice - Can-Am Spyder Forums: The Y-factor Community
 1Likes
  • 1 Post By vernvernvern
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
post #1 of 6 (permalink) Old 11-25-2019, 06:54 PM Thread Starter
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2019
Location: Orlando, Florida
Posts: 1
Question Buying my first Spyder RT... some advice

Hi...

This is my first post here, so excuse if this is a repeat topic..

I would like spend some weekends on ride a motorcycle . I did the Motorcycle basic curse and i loved the Spyder RT. A lot people said the Can-Am spyder are not reliable (mechanics and electrical issues) .

In this point i need Help from Spyders Owners.. advice about whats the things i need to take care when i will buy the Spyder RT...

I get some options:

1. 2012 red color RT-S. 11k miles. 998cc SR5
2. 2014 Orange color RT limited, 1500 miles. 1330cc SR6
3. 2016 White Color RT, 15k miles. 1330cc SR6
4. 2013 Yellow color RT-S, 10k miles, 998cc Manual.

your comments are welcome

Thanks a lot

Luis
Orlando, FL.
Luis Angulo is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #2 of 6 (permalink) Old 11-27-2019, 06:51 AM
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2019
Posts: 27
I own two 2012 RTs and both have been great machines. The biggest thing with the 998s is you are supposed to have valve clearances checked every 25,000 miles or so which can be costly if done at a dealer. Although I would never say disregard the manufacturer recommendation there are many posts of those having this done and everything was within spec. I personally have not had this procedure done and likely won’t. The 1330’s do not require valve checks thus saving this cost down the road if inclined to have it done. The 998s also use a bit of oil (they all do it’s just the way they are) and will burn a bit more fuel than the 1330’s. The 1330’s have a bit more range to a tank of fuel and a little more HP. Both are great machines and really it will come down to what you want to spend. You can generally buy a lower mileage RT with the 998 a few thousand cheaper than one that has a 1330 with higher mileage. That said if considering resale value then you want to go with the 1330.

Advice, don’t discount either both are great depends really on what you are willing to spend. If cost is a non issue, go with the 1330.

Also as far as model years they say the 2013 is the year to stay away from as this year had some issues.

Last edited by Klbrnr; 12-07-2019 at 07:22 AM.
Klbrnr is offline  
post #3 of 6 (permalink) Old 11-27-2019, 03:05 PM
Super Moderator
 
Join Date: Mar 2017
Location: N. Central Florida
Posts: 690
Quote:
Originally Posted by Klbrnr View Post
If cost is a non issue, go with the 1330.

Also as far as model years they say the 2013 is the year to stay away from as this year had some issues.
Agreed.
And the semi-automatic transmission is a dream.
I would not recommend a manual.

The most common problems with the 2014 and newer models are not huge but can be expensive if out of warranty.
Parking brake motors and the control cluster on the left handle bar are the most common failures I think.

If you buy used, make sure you get at least a 30 day warranty, in writing, and consider buying an extended warranty.

Personal advice: If financing, save up as much down payment as you can BEFORE you buy.

'17 RT Limited
Easy Rider is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #4 of 6 (permalink) Old 12-11-2019, 02:33 PM
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2019
Location: King City, MO 64463
Posts: 5
Why are the engine oil dipsticks so hard to screw back in straight??? Noticed that on a 2009 and a 2013 2 cylinder engines. Have they been cross threaded before I bought them used? Just wondered. Thanks, Vern
RazzleH likes this.
vernvernvern is offline  
post #5 of 6 (permalink) Old 09-23-2020, 01:58 PM
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2020
Posts: 4
Before you do anything thinking you have a bad instrument cluster switching system, get a good air hose and blow out each switch carefully. I learned this along time ago when I was buying and selling Corvettes. Something in the council or The electric windows would not work. That of course would lower the price and 99 times out of 100 when I got at home I would blow everything out and the switch would work fine. You would be amazed the amount of skin you get out of an automobile window control. I had an intermittent problem with my turn signals when I bought my 2016 couple weeks ago and I blew all the switches out and they work fine.
Plarimer is offline  
post #6 of 6 (permalink) Old 10-02-2020, 05:44 PM
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2018
Posts: 19
Quote:
Originally Posted by Luis Angulo View Post
Hi...

This is my first post here, so excuse if this is a repeat topic..

I would like spend some weekends on ride a motorcycle . I did the Motorcycle basic curse and i loved the Spyder RT. A lot people said the Can-Am spyder are not reliable (mechanics and electrical issues) .

In this point i need Help from Spyders Owners.. advice about whats the things i need to take care when i will buy the Spyder RT...

I get some options:

1. 2012 red color RT-S. 11k miles. 998cc SR5
2. 2014 Orange color RT limited, 1500 miles. 1330cc SR6
3. 2016 White Color RT, 15k miles. 1330cc SR6
4. 2013 Yellow color RT-S, 10k miles, 998cc Manual.

your comments are welcome

Thanks a lot

Luis
Orlando, FL.
2 yrs ago I bought my current 2017 RT Limited. When I test rode it on the day I didnt like it at all (I've had motox, quads, Sports Road, Sport Tourers bikes). I came back to the dealership and test rode a F3, it handled like a go-kart - very sporty - it was then I realised two things.

To oversimplify:
1. The RT's are more for touring and hence offer more protection from the elements, a more upright riding position, and have a softer suspension - the idea you travel in comfort and fatigue should be less.
2. The F3's (like the earlier models) have harsher suspension and are great for the weekend blast.

I went with the RTL even though I initially didn't like it because touring is my thing, and I use it as a day to day transport. Its not unusual for me to clock up 1000km in a day, and at 56 like to be able to continue this for as long as I can.

Two things influence the reliability:
  1. The place where it is serviced - when I bought my RTL it was new, and for the first 12 months spent a lot of time at the dealership getting problems sorted. I switched dealers and the difference is like chalk and cheese.
  2. where you garage it - mine is garaged - in the garage, and not out in the weather, and while the Spyders have Waterproof this and that, those who leave them outside seem to have more issues than expected.

My suggestion either 3 or 2 in that order. The 1300 is great with the SE6 gearbox, less gimmickry than the later models (2018 on). My '17 RTL after 2 years has over 50,000 km on the clock and is going strong and not missed a bit since switching dealerships. Hope this helps

Last edited by mbkitmgr; 10-02-2020 at 05:46 PM.
mbkitmgr is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Reply

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now



In order to be able to post messages on the Can-Am Spyder Forums: The Y-factor Community forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.

User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Password:


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.

Email Address:
OR

Log-in










Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page
Display Modes
Linear Mode Linear Mode



Posting Rules  
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome