I have had the engine on my 2010 RTS die on me several times while driving. I have drained and changed the fuel and added stabilizer per dealer instructions and the engine still quits on me. This has happened after about a half hour of riding around town. The engine will eventually restart after several times, but this is far from what I feel is safe. If anyone has had a similar problem, please let me know what the fix is. Regards
The only times the engine has quit on my 2011 RT-AC has been when I accidentally bumped the kill switch. First time took me an hour to figure out what had happened.
When does the engine stall? Is it during deceleration, during idle? I think that there is probably a problem with it. You will need to provide the dealer with the exact information. If you can, get it on camera with a helmet cam or something.
Don't let the dealer or Can Am off the hook in solving this problem.
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Dave
'11 RT Ltd.
Working on some custom LED lighting with an intelligent controller...
I'm having the same damn problem. I have about 6000 miles on my bike and it has stop going around cornors at or around 15 to 20 miles a hour. Been to the dealers and they cannot find anything wrong. The other day I took off from a light and shifted into 2 at about 20 mph and it stopped on me. But as soon as I hit the start button it will start right now. But afaird what might happen when going 70 or more and have this happen. Will lose power steering and every thing. Taking it back to the dealers to have checked again.
there was a few bulletins about the engine just dying, but most of the time it was when you were stopped
get them to check all the bulletins for the throttle body for the last 6 months
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2011 RT Ltd with all factory options, ISCI floorboards/cruiser boards and LED nut with custom Halo kit and custom Fusion power plant, 50 SPF sunblock and cheap sunglasses
I guess that I'm curious as to why the dealer would have you draining the fuel and filter...
What exactly are you doing when it cuts out? Is it under acceleration? Idling? slowing down to stop? Does it bog until it quits, or is it feeling more like the computers are chopping it off at the knees real sudden?
Details...we need more details...
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2010 Blue RT Audio & Convenience model Se-5 transmision. Dealer-added foglights, accent LEDs and extra speakers. Some RTS chrome windshield, front spoiler and top trunk trim, RTS frunklight and frunk liner, Top Trunk liner, Chrome lower air deflector, fendertip LED bulbs and ISCI floorboards added by yours truly...
When does the engine stall? Is it during deceleration, during idle? I think that there is probably a problem with it. You will need to provide the dealer with the exact information. If you can, get it on camera with a helmet cam or something.
Don't let the dealer or Can Am off the hook in solving this problem.
Thanks for the help. The engine quits while riding and while idling. It has happened in warm weather and cooler weather. It happens after I have been riding for a 1/2 hour or more. I thought it may be vapor-lock and mentioned this to the dealer.
there was a few bulletins about the engine just dying, but most of the time it was when you were stopped
get them to check all the bulletins for the throttle body for the last 6 months
Thank you. I alerted the dealer of your situation and what the fix may have been. We'll see where it goes from here. So far they have had the RTS for a week.
I guess that I'm curious as to why the dealer would have you draining the fuel and filter...
What exactly are you doing when it cuts out? Is it under acceleration? Idling? slowing down to stop? Does it bog until it quits, or is it feeling more like the computers are chopping it off at the knees real sudden?
Details...we need more details...
Thanks for the reply. I changed the gas, just in case there was water in the fuel. I have been using hi-test and there have been reports by Harley owners and car drivers of water in the gas since hi-test is rarely used these days by any vehicles.
The stall-out problem is very random. It happens while riding or idling at a stop light. Sometimes it will restart immediately. Last time it took 15 minutes to restart and keep going. The engine does not sputter, it just dies. The gauges show the RPM's dropping to zero. Since the gauges work, I don't think it is a total electrical fault, so your comment about a computer failure may be the most logical explanation.
Ahhh... The dealer's got it...
I was going to tell you to pull the active codes...
Start it up, and push in and hold both the Mode and Set buttons...
Then push in the turnsignal button (Like you're cancelling a signal)
Any active codes should pop right up!
P1614 would be warning you about the throttle bodies...
Hit mode again to clear the screen and you're go to go!
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2010 Blue RT Audio & Convenience model Se-5 transmision. Dealer-added foglights, accent LEDs and extra speakers. Some RTS chrome windshield, front spoiler and top trunk trim, RTS frunklight and frunk liner, Top Trunk liner, Chrome lower air deflector, fendertip LED bulbs and ISCI floorboards added by yours truly...
Engine dies
Linear Mode
