I plan to pick up my new Spyder RT Limited on Thursday evening. Drive it about 50 miles on Friday and then head for New Orleans (350 miles) By the time I get back I will already be over the 600 mile check up. I plan to discuss this witht the dealer but have a question for anyone willing to take a minute.
I have always broke cars and bikes in by changing speeds up and down from 55 to 75 on the highway. What did you guys do for your break in period.
Does anyone think we are crazy for breaking in on a semi long trip like this?
I have heard that you should also make sure to get heat cycles in. Meaning ride 30-50 miles and let the engine cool off. Then ride another 30-50 miles. I follow the break in recommendations from the manual, but also make sure to get the heat cycles in. The Spyder manual does recommend that you not run at wide open throttle for extended periods of time during the break in miles.
I know others that think you should ride it like you stole it during the break in. The thought being that the rings seat in better by riding like that. I try to give moderate hard throttle (without going wide open) as well as letting off the throttle during the break in.
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Dave
'11 RT Ltd.
Working on some custom LED lighting with an intelligent controller...
I've owned a lot of cycles and maxi-scooters over the years and tried all diff methods. Dont seem to make much diff. Personally I run it as I would normally, other than not ragging on it for longish periods. Maybe you can plan your trip with a mixture of interstate and secondary roads.
Keep an eye on oil level and temp gauge. Shouldn't have any problems.
lke Dave, I've always used the "varying rpms and lots of heat cycles" method. It has always worked well for me. Don't wring its neck though! Give it a chance for the rings to get acquainted with the cylinder walls...
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2010 Blue RT Audio & Convenience model Se-5 transmision. Dealer-added foglights, accent LEDs and extra speakers. Some RTS chrome windshield, front spoiler and top trunk trim, RTS frunklight and frunk liner, Top Trunk liner, Chrome lower air deflector, fendertip LED bulbs and ISCI floorboards added by yours truly...
I have heard that you should also make sure to get heat cycles in. Meaning ride 30-50 miles and let the engine cool off. Then ride another 30-50 miles. I follow the break in recommendations from the manual, but also make sure to get the heat cycles in. The Spyder manual does recommend that you not run at wide open throttle for extended periods of time during the break in miles.
I know others that think you should ride it like you stole it during the break in. The thought being that the rings seat in better by riding like that. I try to give moderate hard throttle (without going wide open) as well as letting off the throttle during the break in.
While a perfect break in would be great, my dealer is about 90 miles away, so I had to get it home in one day. It took awhile with a rain storm to make it more fun to help me break it in. At 30 miles I got a check engine light on. I am now at 800 miles and things are going fine. While my temperature gauge seems to run hot, they checked the temperature and there was not a problem.
I believe that's simply how the gauge is calibrated to read...very odd!
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2010 Blue RT Audio & Convenience model Se-5 transmision. Dealer-added foglights, accent LEDs and extra speakers. Some RTS chrome windshield, front spoiler and top trunk trim, RTS frunklight and frunk liner, Top Trunk liner, Chrome lower air deflector, fendertip LED bulbs and ISCI floorboards added by yours truly...
The temperature will vary according to the ambient temperature. At 55 degrees, my Spyder runs at about 1/4 temperature, at 90 degrees it runs at 1/2, above 90 it runs just over 1/2.
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Dave
'11 RT Ltd.
Working on some custom LED lighting with an intelligent controller...
Will Md, your temps are about like what we have here in NC and when its in the low-mid 90's the gauge will read about half way or bit higher unless I have to do any stops at lights or whatever, then it will climb into the upper white block. This is with the upper radiator exhaust opening closed off and belly pan off. I've not been in any prolonged stop and go traffic in town.
I use the varied throttle and heat cycle method. This probably sounds a little nuts to some but I can feel as a new motor starts to loosen up and break in. On a new engine to me they feel tight as you start to push so I stay within that range and not push to hard. As the engine gets run in it feels like it wants to rev quicker and higher and being an old hot rodder I naturally oblige. I could tell when my spyder was broken in as the engine tone changed and it ran more relaxed.
I have used this method since I was a kid riding dirt bikes. My best friend and I got Yamaha 100 trail bikes at the same time and I broke mine in the way my dad taught me and my friend did his strictly by the manual. My friend never came close to pushing his and his Yamaha always was slower than mine and my engine lasted longer than his to boot. Actually the motor was still good but the rest of the bike was worn out when I got rid of it. I have been a believer ever since and with the exception of the Fiat I had every rig I have owned has run excellent.