We purchased a 2011 Spyder Roadster about a month ago. Once in a while it stops running when we come to a complete stop. It starts right away. Since it can't be duplicated when be brought it in for service they can't answer why it happens. Is anyone else experiencing this problem?
Which model and which transmission do you have? I think that we'll need a little more information in order to offer up any useful suggestions...
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2010 Blue RT Audio & Convenience model Se-5 transmision. Dealer-added foglights, accent LEDs and extra speakers. Some RTS chrome windshield, front spoiler and top trunk trim, RTS frunklight and frunk liner, Top Trunk liner, Chrome lower air deflector, fendertip LED bulbs and ISCI floorboards added by yours truly...
A couple of other things I wonder about is how many miles do you have on it, has the 600 mile service been done and have you had it out on the highway to clean the motor out? I ask this because being a 2011 and being new of course you need to break it in so you need to watch your rev's initially but being a high rev motor if you dog it around too much it could be loading up on you, and could die once in a while at a light. When I got my 600 mile service done they pulled the plugs and replaced them and I was a bit suprised that they were as dirty as they were. Since the dealer can't find anything wrong I tend to suspect you may be babying it a bit more than you should.
Problem: Posted by Lamonster - What can happen is when the throttle body plates are being held shut for 40 min. they can get stuck and burn up the motor and then you have to replace the throttle body. This fix is going to back it off a degree or so.
This was released on July 4th and effects all 2011 Spyder RT's.
A. RT Throttle body actuator protection (see above)
B. Middle side panel grommet replacement (Problem: one of the 3 rubber grommets holding the middle side panels might fall off after multiple removal and reinstallation of the middle side panel.)
0.3 hour = flat rate time
I wasn't able to post the file so I emailed it to Lamonster.
Note: 2011-7 is also listed on the front page of this announcement. The rubber grommet shows a part number of 705 003 264.
I have a 2011 RT Limited. We had the 600 mile check up. They couldn't duplicate the problem since its intermittent. Plugs were changed with the 600 mile check. We currently have around 900 miles. A lot of riding between 50-60 mph with a mix of highway and local riding.
Problem: Posted by Lamonster - What can happen is when the throttle body plates are being held shut for 40 min. they can get stuck and burn up the motor and then you have to replace the throttle body. This fix is going to back it off a degree or so.
Anyone know if this will be a software fix or a mechanical fix? When is the dealer expected to find out the fix. My RTS is only a week old and it stalls while idling at least once or twice each time I ride it. Starts right up and runs fine until the next time.
Problem: Posted by Lamonster - What can happen is when the throttle body plates are being held shut for 40 min. they can get stuck and burn up the motor and then you have to replace the throttle body. This fix is going to back it off a degree or so.
Anyone know if this will be a software fix or a mechanical fix? When is the dealer expected to find out the fix. My RTS is only a week old and it stalls while idling at least once or twice each time I ride it. Starts right up and runs fine until the next time.
OK I have to ask as this makes no sense to me. I don't understand "if the throttle body plates are being held shut for 40 min they can get stuck and burn up the motor." Do they mean burn up the fuel in the engine? I can't get my head around the notion that if you burn up the motor you only have to replace the throttle body. Seems to me if the throttle body was stuck closed what would happen is that the engine would not start as it would not be getting fuel/air. I have to be missing something here.
OK I have to ask as this makes no sense to me. I don't understand "if the throttle body plates are being held shut for 40 min they can get stuck and burn up the motor." Do they mean burn up the fuel in the engine? I can't get my head around the notion that if you burn up the motor you only have to replace the throttle body. Seems to me if the throttle body was stuck closed what would happen is that the engine would not start as it would not be getting fuel/air. I have to be missing something here.
I also don't get the connection. My understanding is the throttle body plates are held down for 40 minutes after shut down to prevent gases leaking back into the engine. I can see not holding them down so tightly but how does this effect random engine shutoff when idleing. We are missing something here.
Not sure if it is a mechanical fix or software fix, but they adjust the spacing slightly on the throttle plate. From what I gather, some were having problems staring in hot weather. BRP made an adjustment to the throttle plate to solve that problem, but it caused another problem, thus the service bulletin to make the adjustment. Will know more after I bring my in this weekend for the service bulletin 2011 -07-08 fix.
Roadster stops running at stop lights
Linear Mode
