I had some repeating "brake failure" codes until I checked the brake lever leaf spring, which was just slightly out of adjustment. I bent the spring a smidgen at a time until I could hear the microswitch trigger when pressing the pedal down, and another audible click when the pedal had returned up against the rubber bumper. In my case, the brake failure code caused a VSS fault and a "limp home" mode. Just a bump in the road could cause the pedal to drop down slightly, triggering the fault.
Apparently the Steering computer is the logic filter for brake faults, and if there is a fault in the brake system, the computers gang up to get your attention. You can also get a brake failure fault from a burned out or loose tail/stop bulb.
In the event of a limp home mode, all you need to do to keep truckin' is to shut the engine down for maybe 5 minutes--just long enough for the computers to remove the fault from current display to stored memory.
All the same, check the brake fluid reservoirs, and note if the brake pedal seems to go down farther than needed to apply the brakes. A shade tree measurement is when the brakes are firmly applied, there should be about 10mm between the top of the brake arm and the bottom of the rubber pad.
To check this out, take your measuring stick to the local Can Am dealer and check the brake "firm" point on several different Spyders.
There is an official and very involved way to adjust the pedal to factory specs, but that requires an official tool and an hour or two of labor. My own measurements showed different "firm" points on different Spyders, but they averaged about 10mm.
pmdave
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